panorama software,virtual tour software
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2006-06-07
#22

OK, I'm actually going to dig deep into the old kitty to get this set up.  There's actually not that much difference between the Canon and Sigma 15mm lens.  Can anyone recommend one over the other?

Thanks


Condottiero - Freelance Multimedia Design
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2006-06-07
#23

Nope! I would read a few reviews first. You would think the Canon "should" be superior but who knows?

Look forward to seeing your results Anthony.

You do understand that the 15mm Fisheye is not circular right? It is full frame and will require more than 3 shots etc...

Sigma 8mm for full circular not the 15mm (Sorry if I confused you before) I did say 8mm

Regards, Smooth


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2006-06-07
#24

Hi all !

Dave, I would be very interested if you could upload somewhere 2 (or 3 ?) "original" photos you made with the 5D+8mm combination, so I can try to assemble them with PW4 and see the quality of the pano.

Phil, French Guiana


Phil, French Guiana
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2006-06-07
#25

Ah!  Smooth, sorry to be thick mate but can you explain the difference between the 8 and 15mm situation?  I'm afraid I'm not too up on the tech side of all this.

Thanks!


Condottiero - Freelance Multimedia Design
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#26

Anthony,

The Sigma or Peleng 8mm gives a 180 degree circular image. (Round with a lot of black wasted pixels)

The Sigma 15mm fisheye gives a 180 degree full frame image (this in not round but full frame, a very wide angle image)  HFOV: 141 degrees, VFOV: 91 degrees, DFOV: 180 degrees this will require 6 shots at 60 degree increments plus up and down shots giving  11500 x 5750 pixels in the final image. (12.8 megapixels, 6+2). The clarity will be a lot higher than using the 8mm fisheye but the work flow increases.

Panoweaver 4.0 can handle images from either lens no problem.

Regards, Smooth


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2006-06-08
#27

The 180 is probably measured diagonally across the image like the Nikkor 10.5 fisheye lens.

Dave


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#28

Yes it is Dave, as I stated in my last post DFOV: = 180 Degrees.

Regards, Smooth


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#29

Smooth,

Thanks for the explination mate - that makes things alot clearer.  I'm 'willing' to increase my workload if the results make it worth the extra effort.  However, I'm afraid this begs 2 more questions.

1. How do you get the up and (especially) down shot as the camera is locked into the Agnos head??

2. I'm being asked to do more and more panos that include moving subjects.  It's already hard enough doing this with 3 shots (the 8700 is admittedly a slow camera) but trying to do this with six will - I imagine - be worse.  Or is the 5D so fast that you can shoot an image per second?  Dave, any thoughts on this?

Thanks

 


Condottiero - Freelance Multimedia Design
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#30

Steiner,

You can shoot the up shot with the Agnos MrotatorTCPS by turning the panohead 90 degrees up. You can do the very same with the down shot turning the Agnos head down 90 degrees. (though you will be taking a picture of your tripod) Still, this can help greatly as you now only have to clone out the tripod or use a small cap. You can and this would be the preferred method - Take the down shot by hand, this is done by placing a pebble (or something) under the direct centre of your tripod centre line. Make note of the camera position in both angle and height and then remove the camera from the tripod and then take the shot trying your best to mimic the position. (Remember the up and down shots should be taken in the last rotational shot position. Use manual control points in Panoweaver 4.0 to help with stitching.

Your second question about people. The more shots in the series the better. Using layers in Photoshop you mask out the unwanted parts and blurs. Photoshop layers are the best way to achieve this.

Regards, Smooth


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2006-06-09
#31

Hey Smooth

OK thanks, looks like more work but the results gotta be better than the 8700.  Re. the Mrotator TCPS - is that the TCP 'short' version?  Is there a difference between that and the TCP?

Cheers

Anthony


Condottiero - Freelance Multimedia Design