panorama software,virtual tour software
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2009-08-06
#22
It's there now
looks like I need a little more adjustments
Click Here to dowload files they are zipped

I just used the same link from before.


Thanks Smooth
Lee Scott - Nikon D3/D300/D5000 - |shaved Nikkor 10.5 mm| Manfrotto 055XPROB tripod /322RC2 Grip - Mrotator TCS |CS5 | PW7 & TW6.5 Pro
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To err is human ... to not try is just plain lazy
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2009-08-06
#23
changed grip ha! didn't know you could do that

Thanks for the tip

Lee Scott - Nikon D3/D300/D5000 - |shaved Nikkor 10.5 mm| Manfrotto 055XPROB tripod /322RC2 Grip - Mrotator TCS |CS5 | PW7 & TW6.5 Pro
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To err is human ... to not try is just plain lazy
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2009-08-07
#24


Lee,

The amount of tilt down you have now is good enough to work this through.

As you can see you now need to adjust the lower arm first so you don't have the saw tooth effect. Because the teeth now point to the left this means you need to side to the left (standing behind the camera) I'd say 1mm. Until we have a perfect circle. Refer back to the tuition page Once done, we can get the fore/aft on the upper rail fine tuned.

Regards, Smooth
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2009-08-07
#25
Here's what I got so far.. getting close.
I put a white cloth around the neck to distinguish the circle. Boy did that make a difference.
I also invested in a set "jewelers Eye Loops" $2.99 to help set the millimeters on the panohead. What a difference it made



I truly appreciate your time Smooth
Lee Scott - Nikon D3/D300/D5000 - |shaved Nikkor 10.5 mm| Manfrotto 055XPROB tripod /322RC2 Grip - Mrotator TCS |CS5 | PW7 & TW6.5 Pro
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To err is human ... to not try is just plain lazy
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2009-08-08
#26
G'day Lee,

Looking much better!

Give me a download to the latest set of images so I can stitch them.

Regards, Smooth
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2009-08-08
#27
Good Morning Smooth,

It's there now
ooooo so close
Click Here to dowload files they are zipped

I just used the same link from before.


the b is for the where the back of my manfrotto 39 (see below)
settings top = 59 , bot = 55


Here's how I got the white circle

it made my life so much easier distinguishing the breaks

Oh by the way I AM going to pay you for this help. Your help has been invaluable to me and I don't expect to get this for free. Please PM me and let me know what I can pay you and will also PM you for some real one on one tutoring.

Thanks Smooth
Lee Scott - Nikon D3/D300/D5000 - |shaved Nikkor 10.5 mm| Manfrotto 055XPROB tripod /322RC2 Grip - Mrotator TCS |CS5 | PW7 & TW6.5 Pro
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To err is human ... to not try is just plain lazy
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2009-08-08
#28


Hi Lee,

Very good

You could leave it there if you choose as it is close enough. But, if you want to improve more you need to move about 0.5mm on the lower rail to the left (standing behind the camera) just to centre the lens 100%.

I know this via the slight saw teeth effect with the tips to the left.

I bet your feeling a lot happier?

Regards, Smooth
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2009-08-08
#29
Oh I am soooo ecstatic. I will play with that when I come back from the picnic.
How did you get the complete circle?
I just generally accept the matching points as is.
Should I manually change them to isolate stitching points?
Lee Scott - Nikon D3/D300/D5000 - |shaved Nikkor 10.5 mm| Manfrotto 055XPROB tripod /322RC2 Grip - Mrotator TCS |CS5 | PW7 & TW6.5 Pro
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To err is human ... to not try is just plain lazy
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2009-08-08
#30
Results will depend on the the blender being used. But really it is of no consequence. With control points it is vital that you have a good spread from high up to low down along the edges on all adjoining image pairs. Clustered control points in the centre can give false positives and really should be thinned out.

This is something I cover in more detail via tuition.

Regards, Smooth