panorama software,virtual tour software
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Joined: 2009-09-27
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2009-09-27
#1

Fisheye lens for Nikon D700

Hi, Nikon 16mm f/2.8 and Sigma 8mm f/3.5 are both having an angle of view of 180 degrees.

Is there any lens out there that can shoot more than 180 degrees for use on a Nikon D700? Thanks.
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Joined: 2002-11-23
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2009-09-27
#2
No not really, why do you need a wider view than 180 degrees?

You understand that the Sigma is 180 degrees circular (180 degrees both directions) and the Nikkor 16mm is 180 degrees diagonal only? These are very different. The 16mm is a full frame fisheye where as the Sigma produces a round circular bubble.

Regards, Smooth
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2009-09-27
#3
Hi, oh I really didn't know 16mm was merely 180deg diagonal, thanks for highlighting that.

The reason I was asking for 183deg or more was because in an earlier post, you mentioned:
"Should you upgrade to a fullframe sensor camera like the Canon 5D or Nikon D700 etc and use the Sigma 8mm you will need to shoot 3 shots 120 degree click stops as the minimum."

and

"The Sigma 8mm on the Canon or Nikon fullframe is 180 degrees circular and joining/stitching these back to back is marginal at best because of the lack of overlap."

So can the images produced by Sigma 8mm be stitched properly to produce a full 360deg bubble? Or it cannot be done due to lack of overlap? Or do you mean I have to shoot 3 or more times in order to create the overlap areas?

And besides Sigma 8mm, which other lens in the market can work with full-frame DSLRs (like Canon 5D, Nikon D700) to produce a bubble/circular image?

I had only used FC-E8 on Coolpix before and recently upgraded to D700. So I am quite lost to what lens to use to produce the same results. Please advise. Thanks.
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2009-09-27
#4
You can use the Sigma 8mm Fisheye but you will need to shoot 3 images 1 every 120 degrees.

Even using the 183 degree images from a Nikon Coolpix with FC-E8 or FC-E9 I would suggest the exact same shooting sequence of 1 every 120 degrees meaning 3 shots to create a full 360x180 equirectangular panoramic image.

Off the shelf you have the Sigma 8mm Fisheye and Peleng 8mm to choose from only for the D700.

All other options for "minimal" shooting require modifying a APS-C/DX small sensor lens by removing the sunshade such as the Tokina 10-17mm Zoom Fisheye or Nikkor 10.5mm Fisheye or the Samyang 8mm Fisheye. All of these would also allow you to shoot a minimum of 3 shots to cover the full 360x180 "after" modification.

Explain what you want from your equipment and what you want to produce and I will happily advise the way I would go.

Regards, Smooth
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2009-09-27
#5
Hi, I re-read yr earlier posting and finally got what you meant. My mind was kinda hard-coded the notion of "shooting 2 images was all I need". Shooting 3 times seems unfamiliar as I only need to shoot 2x180 with FC-E8 previously. I apologise for making u repeat.

Ok, next question is what kind of pan-head I needed with my camera and Sigma 8mm (assume I get one)? What kind of pan-head will accurately shoot at 3 x 120deg?

My ultimate aim is to shoot interiors and stitch them with Panoweaver and create a VT with Tourweaver. Thanks.
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2009-09-27
#6
The problem with shooting only two shots "back to back" even with the FC-E8 is that the overlap is very small and because all fisheye lenses are softer (I.E: less sharp) towards the edges is is always going to yield far better results shooting three images 1 every 120 degree instead of 1 every 180 degrees because of the fact you increase the overlap and thus control points are easier to place either automatically or manually and the final images will be of a higher quality because you retain the sharper part of the images in the final stitch.

Yes, you will need a panohead and your options are many for your combination.

The Nodal Ninja range are well respected.
Also the Agnos range.

With the D700 and Sigma 8mm the easiest and superior system will be the Nodal Ninja R1 Ultimate panohead with matching Sigma 8mm ring.

Regards, Smooth
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2009-09-28
#7
Hi, I was wondering if it is harder to achieve consistency if you take 3 shots. For example, in a busy street where there are many people walking around. One person appearing in Shot 1 might have walked to another area that is coincidentally in Shot 2 or Shot 3. In comparison with the 2-shot method, such thing is less likely to happen.

Yes you are right about soft edges, hopefully one day, someone will come up with a lens of 190-220deg? :)