panorama software,virtual tour software
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2011-03-02
#22
What I think when I need in future to more high resolution I think i must to change the lens and the number of pictures I take such as full frame or some that....etc

Can i use the same panohead to do 6 pictures ?? or I must take other panohead?! In clear I ask about to use other lens with the panohead in future, where I can go on

In other hand, I have bought yet the Canon 7D kit + Lens 8mm from digitalrev.com :) I just wait shipping ;)
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2011-03-02
#23

The rotator supplied with the NN R1 has click stops for 2, 3, 4 and 6 shots.

That is 180 degrees, 120 degrees, 90 degrees and 60 degrees. With the Sigma 8mm you can shoot 4 or 6 but more will not increase the maximum pixel size. Once you have covered the 360x180 sphere it is covered. Using the 7D and Sigma 8mm 4 rotational shots is enough. The reasons to shoot 6 instead of 4 would be because you wish to capture moving objects and have more images to be able to mask. Or because typically the centre of a fisheye lens produces the sharpest image quality and drops off towards the edges.

Upshot, 4 or 6 shots is up to you.

If you moved to a 10mm lens you would need 6 rotational shots and then zenith/up shot and optional nadir/down shot. The thing with the NN R1 is that it does NOT retain the NPP once you tilt up to shoot a zenith shot. Whilst this can be worked around with a different workflow. I would recommend a different panohead if you plan to use a 10mm - 16mm fisheye lens.

So, if this concerns you I would suggest a typical panohead design like the Agnos MrotatorTCPs or Nodal Ninja 5. Of course there are other options as I mentioned earlier in this thread.

Regards, Smooth [8D]


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2011-03-02
#24
Quote: Originally posted by smooth on March-02-2011

The rotator supplied with the NN R1 has click stops for 2, 3, 4 and 6 shots.

That is 180 degrees, 120 degrees, 90 degrees and 60 degrees. With the Sigma 8mm you can shoot 4 or 6 but more will not increase the maximum pixel size. Once you have covered the 360x180 sphere it is covered. Using the 7D and Sigma 8mm 4 rotational shots is enough. The reasons to shoot 6 instead of 4 would be because you wish to capture moving objects and have more images to be able to mask. Or because typically the centre of a fisheye lens produces the sharpest image quality anddrops off towards the edges.

Upshot, 4 or 6 shots is up to you.

If you moved to a 10mm lens you would need 6 rotational shots and then zenith/up shot and optional nadir/down shot. The thing with the NN R1 is that it doesNOT retain the NPP once you tilt up to shoot a zenith shot. Whilst this can be worked around with a different workflow. I would recommend a different panohead if you plan to usea 10mm - 16mmfisheye lens.

So, if this concerns you I would suggest a typical panohead design like the Agnos MrotatorTCPs or Nodal Ninja 5. Of course there are other options as I mentioned earlier in this thread.

Regards, Smooth <IMG style="CURSOR: hand" onclick="AddSmileyIcon('smileys/smiley16.gif')" border=0 alt= src="http://www.easypano.com/forum/smileys/smiley16.gif" width=17 height=17>





That's what I see so when I change the lens I need other panohead so I think from now to take a panohead for the current time and future modification:)

so now to just confirm, is there any problem to use 7D and 8mm fisheye with Nodal Ninja 5 ?!
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2011-03-02
#25
Quote: Originally posted by rawan on March-02-2011
so now to just confirm, is there any problem to use 7D and 8mm fisheye with Nodal Ninja 5 ?!

No, no problem but you will need to find the No Parallax Point in two axis. Both lower rail and upper rail.

Should you go this way I would highly recommend you purchase a NN Acra Swiss style quick release clamp and a 7D camera plate from Really Right Stuff.

You also might want to upgrade to the RD-16 rotator.

Regards, Smooth [8D]


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2011-03-02
#26
:( if this ways no

I will go on first recommended NN R1

is this exactly to I go pay?
http://store.nodalninja.com/products/R1-Adjustable-Tilt-Ring-Mount-Package.html

Thanks Smooth
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#27

That package is correct.

You can buy from many places, maybe better closer to you?

See http://www.nodalninja.com/resellers.html

Be sure to order the lens ring for "Canon" Sigma 8mm Fisheye

Regards, Smooth [8D]


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2011-03-02
#28
Done


thank you Smooth

I will come back to you again soon


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2011-03-12
#29

All camera settings must be (M) manual.

The sweet spot for the Sigma 8mm Fisheye is Aperture f/8.0. Set the aperture to this and using the internal light meter adjust the shutter speed to meet the centre position or -1ev once you know the average.

ISO should be kept as low as possible ISO 100 is preferable but the 7D is very good with little images noise right up to ISO 800.

White Balance should be set and measured to the scene.

Always shoot RAW and learn how to process RAW images correctly. You need to correct for Chromatic Aberration. Your final saved images from RAW should be in 16 Bit .tif format before stitching.

Regards, Smooth [8D]


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2011-03-12
#30
Quote: Originally posted by smooth on March-12-2011
Always shoot RAW and learn how to process RAW images correctly. You need to correct for Chromatic Aberration. Your final savedimages from RAWshould be in 16 Bit .tif format before stitching.

Regards, Smooth



what you mean by Chromatic Aberration??
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2011-03-12
#31
Quote: Originally posted by rawan on March-12-2011
what you mean by Chromatic Aberration??

Chromatic Aberration is colour shift. All lenses suffer from it to some point. Fisheye lenses more so. This is corrected with your RAW processing software, be it Adobe Camera Raw, DxO, Canon DPP, Nikon CaptureNX, Bibble, Silkypix, PTlens etc.

See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromatic_Aberration

Regards, Smooth [8D]