panorama software,virtual tour software
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Joined: 2005-05-03
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2005-09-09
#22

Hi Gen.

Yes even though it sometimes is a pain in the a... it is sometimes nescessary to take a lot of exposures. I mainly do this to stand out from the crowd in Denmark and try to offer my customers high quality panoramas. I am not quite there yet, but I am improving.

Of cource I can add a couple of pictures. Do you want the stitched version or?? I can't do it right now, as I am not at my office before monday afternoon.

Actually it might not be so relevant. Earlier today I downloaded a trial version of panoweaver 4, and stitched a few panos at different exposures using the "save stitching parameters" and "stitch with previous settings" For some reason this worked very well when I went on to generate a HDR in photomatix. What I don't understand is why I don't get the same result when stitching with panoweaver 3.01. I have been very carefull to use the exact same x,y and r settings on ALL hemis, so as far as I know the panoramas should be stitched exactly the same way. Anyway I have decided to test panoweaver 4 a bit more and see if all of my stitching is satisfying. If it is I no longer care to try and understand why it wirks or why it does not work. I will just accept that it works, and thats whats important.

One more little question. When I have generated a HDR pano, and imported it back into panoweaver and wanted to publish it, the pano looks like it is not stitched properly. It looks like a stitching line. Have you encountered this problem?? Do you know how to avoid it or do you have to see an example first??

Best regards and thanks for your help in advance (you too smooth)

Morten Andersen

- a newbie trying to improve


Best regards

Morten Andersen
- a newbie trying to improve
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Joined: 2002-11-23
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2005-09-10
#23

Morten,

We would need to know the exact procedure you are using to help you overcome the "line" issue. The first thing that comes to mind is you should not at any stage sharpen a cubic panorama only a spherical version. Because sharpening a cube tile also sharpens the edge of each tile face and when you put them together you will have lines. Sharpening should be the very last step on a spherical image. Only a guess!

Regards, Smooth


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2005-09-10
#24

Hi Smooth

Sharpening you say.......... Yes I have heard that many people do that *lol*. And I should also do it but....... I am still learning, and sharpening is one of the next things on my agenda, so since I don't know how to do it, that can't be the problem :o)

My procedure is very simple. For example my last attempt. I used the trial version of Panoveaver 4 (will buy it today) stitched 3 panos with different exposures. Ater the first one was stitched I of course saved the paramaters and used these parameters to stitch the next 2. Then I imported the 3 jpegs into photomatix. Generated a HDR and then tonemapped it. Then importing it back into panoweaver to publish it. Thats all. Any suggestions will be highly appreciated. If it can be any help I have no problem posting the stitched panos.

Best regards

Morten Andersen

- a newbie trying to improve 


Best regards

Morten Andersen
- a newbie trying to improve
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Joined: 2005-05-15
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2005-09-10
#25

Wide-Eyes,

To sharpen the pano you would open it in photoshop.

Select FILTERS--->SHARPEN--->UNSHARP MASK
The settings I use are AMOUNT=25 TO 50% -- depends on the quality of the image.
RADIUS= 3.0
THRESHOLD= 0

PW has a sharpen filter but Photoshops is better because you can change the values to suit your needs.

The white lines are the result of cubic conversion. As Smooth advises you should not do any sharpening while editing the cubic format. Converting to cubic is useful to remove the tripod and to patch seam faults. You should look up the following tools in photoshop: Clone tool, Patch tool, and Healing brush. These 3 tools are very useful in repairing seam faults or any other blemishes in the image.

In addition do not do any color correction either as this will produce white lines as well. You should ONLY repair the seams in cubic format. Import back to PW, convert to spherical, save as BMP. Open in photoshop and then apply color correcting or sharpening. Import again into PW and then output.

You should consider combining the original hemis using H&S details and stitching one pano. Tone mapping does not always produce the best image. Without gong into a lecture about this basiclally the heims sometimes come out better using this method vs tone mapping. Photmatrix has documentation about the use of circular heims that explains this. You should see their web site documention files.

Gen. Lee

 


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Joined: 2004-12-16
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2005-09-11
#26

Hi Morten

For Interior Photos I always use 3 bracketing. At home I proceed all the bracket-pics through the batch processor of photomatix. H&S Details - Auto

Bevor the batch processing, I check the Fisheyes quickly, because my canon 20D loves to create new folders, even in the same session.

Then I stitch the combined photos and do some Photoshop CS "artist" work. My PS is in German, so I cant give you some more insights, because I dont know the expressions in english.

Like the others already said, I do the sharpening with PS on the final 1500 x 750 px photo.

Outside Pan-Photos I do sometimes 1 - 3 shots of the same location with different settings.

Show your panos to lots of people, because the longer you work with the pano producing, the more you go into the details and you notice things wich nobody will see.

Just do it and the people will like it. So I started. Have a look at my new showcase.

regards, Markus


powertext.ch
http://www.powertext.ch Canon 20D / Sigma 8mm / Roundshot VR-Drive