panorama software,virtual tour software
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Joined: 2002-06-22
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2003-03-01
#12
Have you tried BixVid's solution yet? How did it go? I'm not sure of what setting's to use to expose for the window shot.
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Joined: 2003-01-16
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2003-03-01
#13
Just take a picture from inside pointing to the outside and set everything on automatic... ie let the camera adjust. What will happen is that the interior will be very dark as the camera will adjust for the brightness outside. What u'll then get is a perfect outside shot adjusted automaticly for lighting by ur camera. Then turn 90 degrees so as to have the window/lightsource on the edge and adjust ur camera as u would normaly to get a two pic sphere... ie ae lock and all the lighting adjustments u'd make for interiorshots. Take first pic... 180 degrees 2nd pic... then his instructions... give it a go 'n let us know... I'll do to..
If I only had an hour to chop down a tree... I'd spend 45 mins sharpening the axe.
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Joined: 2002-06-22
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2003-03-01
#14

I gave it a go. I tried setting the shutter speed to 1/1000 and 1/2000. Thant gave me a dark room and a good look at the outside. Unfortunately, the pic is so dark, it really looks bad when layered in the good shot. The window framing or shutters come out dark. I can brighten these up in photoshop, but it still looks odd.

Did you have better luck?

 


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Joined: 2002-04-29
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2003-03-03
#15
Sorry guys not to see this discussion.

Trollx you have to really becarefull cutting in your window with
the erasure tool. Be shure to place the correctly exposed Fe on top with the window exposure layered below. You can use layer trnsparency to check your allignment. You fell victom to an exact problem I ran into which was if you get into erasing the window frame instead of just the glass you will reveal the over exposed portion of the dark window frame not the effect you wanted. Make sure to just erase the just glass portion of the window. It so fun because its like being in the dark room again as you watch your prints materialize in front of your eyes. Its like magic again.

Hope it helps
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2003-03-03
#16

I'm not sure how to use "layer transparency". I'm ablr to use the Overlay option, but not sure how to use as a transparency. Please advise. Thanks. 

 


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Joined: 2002-04-29
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2003-03-03
#17
Sure,

   You open your fisheyes in Photoshop 6.0 or 7.0 and I'm pretty sure layer transparency was available in version 4.0. You select the layer in the layer palete window and above it at the top there is a transparency slider where you have a choice of 0-100% transparency. I generally set my top layer if I'm trying to align images at 50% transparent, then select the botom layer in the layer palete and you can use your arrow keys to incrimentally move your lower image to make sure your window lines up. Thats it once you have you windows lined up select the layer you want to erase. Use your erase tool to erase the top layer to reveal the layer below. Learn how to change the brush size because in the corners sometimes you have to use a brush size of about 24pixels to only erase the window pane portions and not any of the sill or shades. By the way if your shooting a window with vertical or horizontal blinds, pull them completly open don't louver them open. Draw them completly open so all there is is the widow pane.
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Joined: 2002-06-22
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2003-02-21
#18

What about metering? Would you suggest matrix or spot (center weighted)?

I'm playing with the following settings:

AE: locked
White balance: preset by measuring
Mode: A (Apeture priority)

Is this what you guys basically use?

 

 

 


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Joined: 2002-06-12
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2003-02-21
#19

Actually I am basically lazy.  I shoot every thing Rec M and Automatic. 

And I guess the reason is because, when you set the camera menu item to use the Fisheye.. the camera automatically focus goes to infinity for maximum depth of field where everything is in focus.  The camera really does a good job.  

Its only when you get into special situations, like indoor lighting, or sports action.. that its necessary to tweak for better performance.

Hope that helps

 


/s/
Dave
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Joined: 2003-01-16
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2003-02-21
#20
center weighting takes into consideration the mid two thirds of the pic. This perfect as 180 pics tend to loose sharpness to the edges. Therefore three 120's each get good sharpness as the 30 degree overlap eachside gets cut and therefore doesn't need measuring.

don't forget that I go against the grain by not selecting fe1. instead i just no lense mode a pull back so far as to get near full circle. Enables me to play with the autofocus instead of being on infinity. Gives me better pics indoors for sure. Less grain. Will post some results shortly.
If I only had an hour to chop down a tree... I'd spend 45 mins sharpening the axe.
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2003-02-22
#21
Thanks for answering. I'm doing mostly indoor real-estate stuff. Using Fisheye 1. I'm not sure what you mean by Rec M, 360texas. Is that Manual?