panorama software,virtual tour software
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2006-02-11
#1

Some stitching issues - gaps?

First I want to thank 360texas and the rest of you guys for the help with my other topic:
www.easypano.com/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=1&TopicID=1792&PagePosition=1  [Link edited by moderator] about the Sigma 8mm. I recieved it from B&H within a week and I really feel like an ass I waited almost 2 months before I canceled my order with Sigma Benelux.

Anyway. I got the lens, and started shooting right away. But when stitching the top image it leaves some blurred gaps open in the panoramic picture. (marked red in my example). I don't understand why it doesent stitch it correctly. In this case it's an easy fix in photoshop, but it just shouldent be there.

The next thing is: Why do I keep the whole pano-brace-thing in the picture, instead of just the top of the tripod (3 screws-oval thingy). I did quite a lot of panorama's with 32 pics and the same setup, in realviz, but that only left me with the oval thing, wich was a lot easier to remove out of the final picture.

OK, any help is appreciated.



Working the demo isnt's the problem is it? As soon as I got a perfect stitch I'll buy the program, but I need to be sure I will get it perfect first.
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2006-02-16
#2

The small pin hole at the top of the sphere is caused by a 2 or 3 pixel dark band area at the top of the full width of your rectangular image.

Open your image in photoshop and zoom in to around 300% then scroll up to the top of your image.  You will notice a small off shade/color area full width of the image.   Carefully clone that dark band area out.  Then you won't see it in the sphere.

Sort of like this:

http://www.360texas.com/tips/star.htm

Dave

 


/s/
Dave
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2006-02-16
#3

Gen.Lee,

I think you would save a lot of time and get a better (time based) result with the Sigma 8mm. Yes the quality is slightly less when compared with the Nikkor 10.5mm but 4 shots to 7 or 8 just makes sense for real estate work.

The Sigma 8mm can be picked up on ebay for under $500.00 USD.

You are mostly correct the general public don't look up I find. But I gets comments all the time on why is there a round mirror ball on the ground on the one and only panorama I have ever chose to use that cap on! Go figure....

Regards, Smooth


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2006-02-16
#4

Hi Smooth,

I definitly agree with you on the Sigma issue. I am beggining to tire of the extra work it is taking with the 10.5. But then again my price is up there too. But still I need better time/workflow to make this price even more profitable at  8 images 

I make more money on a 4 image tour than a 8 image tour because of the price scale. So to make more profit I need to shave off some time. I will definitly be getting the Sigma 8mm.

I am even thinking of putting the old CP5000 back in service. It makes great panos. I don't think I would loose the quality at a display size of 568 x 400. It would only be an issue for CD-ROM and full screen work. What do you think about doing this?

General Lee

 


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2006-02-16
#5

You are right, the small displayed panoramas do not require a huge megapixel camera. In fact you really only require all that power and serious glass if you plan to display very large panoramas online. That said, the Coolpix 5000 with FC-E8 is a great combination and I see many fullscreen panoramas done with this set up. I would suggest though, shooting 4 images in rotation and stitching them as "drum" images. This is easily done by using the fisheye enclosing and cropping off the edges side to side.

You also could simply "zoom" with the camera to get the very same "drum" style images and in fact gain more pixels in each image. Just make sure you are getting 180 degrees top to bottom.

Give it a whirl and post some results! I think you will be amazed.

Regards, Smooth


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2006-02-17
#6
I'll just keep using this topic. Don't wanna spam the forum :)

Could someone have a look at my nodal position, I really dunno wich way to adjust anymore. I was happy I got it as close as this allready, but when making panoshots I'm still a little off at the stitches. Or could that be solved by changing the image enclosure in PW? I noticed big differences there too, although I think I'm very close to the center now.

Please examine these pictures, maybe you can tell what to adjust by looking at it.



Images can be found here
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2006-02-17
#7

Observations

Left image aligned on the left side of ceramic tile joint
Middle image is showing the pin to be on right side of ceramic joint
Right image shows the pin to be on left side of ceramic joint.

Looks like this when you zoom in.  It is odd that the left and right 45 angles are both positioned on the left side of the joint.  Ususally the both are inside or outside of the center. In this case the center image is showing the pin on the right side of the joint.  Scroll down and find the battery test when you click on this page.

http://www.360texas.com/tips/nodalpts.htm


/s/
Dave
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2006-02-17
#8
Your tips on the website are very helpfull, and I know 'how' to find it, I just aint found it yet. I just dont get it, going to the back makes things worse, to the front also. Maybe it is a side-thing?

I got new settings where it's on at 2 points and way off when looked to the right. I tried it and it gave me even better results then the other one?!?. But where do I go from here, it's starting to drive me crazy.


Gotta love that pinpoint accuracy :s
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2006-02-18
#9

Smooth,

What do you mean by this:

" This is easily done by using the fisheye enclosing and cropping off the edges side to side."

Do you mean in photoshop? or in the camera? I tried all the lens settings and none of them will make a drum image. Confused?

General Lee

 


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2006-02-18
#10

Using Panoweaver 4.0 (look to the top right of screen)

I just had a bit of a look and this doesn't need to even be done, just set the X - Y and R values and stitch away.

Panoweaver 4.0 will stitch 4 "full" circular images in "Drum" stitching mode.

Better still:

My previous other option would serve you better. Zoom the shot so that you create a drum image (making sure you get 180 degree top to bottom) you will end up with cropped side edges. Then import the 4 "drum" images and stitch.

Regards, Smooth


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2006-02-18
#11

Smooth,

I have the Mrotator A. It won't stick at 90 deg. It sticks at 2, 3  or 6 but not 4.

I guess I need another rotator or stick to 3 shot.

General Lee.