panorama software,virtual tour software
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2006-02-18
#12

You can manually position the MrotatorA on the four positions needed no problem. Yes, it will only use two of the actual click stops but you can just position the MrotatorA onto the 270 and 90 mark. That is why it has a marking band with the degree markings. 

Or else you can most likely set up the CP 5000 on your MrotatorTCPS.

Regards, Smooth


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2006-02-19
#13

That occured to me but the rotator is quite easy to move when its not at a click stop. I am afraid I will end up bumping it and ending up with a bad shot sequence. But since its 4 there should be a big overlap and mabey it wont matter.

I havent taken the rotator apart yet. I was wondering if it used a detent disk. If so couldn't I get a 4 position disk? I fig you would know how the inerds work.

General Lee


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2006-02-19
#14

I wouldn't be disassembling as it doesn't use detent disks. Many rotators don't even have click stops! I think you will just have to be careful. As you say you will have plenty of overlap should it move just a little.

Or as I said use your MrotatorTCPS.

Regards, Smooth


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2006-02-11
#15
OT Weird link there. With firefox on windows xp having two http:'s in a row takes me to microsoft.com? Doesn't with internet explorer. Strange world.

Anyway I'm afriad I'm no help with your stitching except to guess you head bracket might be partly no seens because you are using a much wider lens so can now see it. What bracket is it anyway?

What I'm really curious is did you get hit my import taxes when the lens came into holland?

good luck and thanks
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2006-02-11
#16

The top and down images is not really necessary with the Sigma 8mm. You can simply heal the area in Photoshop. It is hard to see why you have had this problem as we don't have your source images.

If you are needing to shoot up-shots then you will need to shoot this shot in the last rotation position I.E position 4 in a 4 shot rotation. The down shot can be taken handheld (whilst trying to match the same camera position) this way you will end up without any tripod in your image.

You will need detail in both up and down shots to align matching points.

It is easiest to do tripod cloning and healing with the panorama in Cubic mode. Simply clean up the area and then convert back to spherical if needed.

Regards, Smooth


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2006-02-11
#17

Hi Pokko,

I believe if you look at this in a pano you will see a small pinhole at the top. Sometimes this pinhole is bigger or very small. It depends on the scene and how level your camera is.

There is no way to avoid this. You are taking 4 drum shots and when stitched they don't quite cover the whole 180 at the top. You will have to patch this in photoshop.

The bottom part is of course your rotator. These parts of the rotator extend out from your tripod several inches and are captured in the image because of the verticle FOV of 180 this lens has. There is no way to avoid this.

I won't matter what stitching program you use because this will still happen.

There is no majick bullet in panoramic photography. You now have an awsome lens and rotator but this comes with a few things that are minor problems.

If you are looking for a totally automated system that requires no photoshop touchup and will spit out a completed product you will have to go with a one shot system. But then you are stuck with the quality that will produce which is not compariable to the sigma in any way.

You could rotate the lens and shoot a top and then stitch 4 + top. But then  you have to content with stitching one more image and deal with the blended edges of that. Which may  or may not have some color imbalance in certain situatioins. Then its back to photoshop

There are a couple of simple solutions you can use.

1. Shoot the top and stitch that.

2. patch it in photoshop

3. Limit the verticle FOV to about 175 deg and you won't see the pinhole. NO ONE will notice a loss of 5 deg of FOV. OR you could cover it with a very small cap.

4. For the bottom I recommend you use a tripod cap. Again you could limit the FOV here as well.

This comes down to how "perfect" you need to make your images. Pano perfectionists insist on eleminating all traces of imperfection. This may be necessary in some situations especially when making a "showcase" piece or entering into a contest of some kind.

If you will be doing "production" work for real estate THIS IS NOT NECESSARY.

This is my opinion of this problem........patch the top in photoshop and put a cap on the bottom with your logo and contact info. You NEED the credit. Credit is how you get other jobs. I NEVER publish a pano without my credit on it. That is not for sale. I do share the cap witlh the client when asked by puttiing their logo on the cap with my name around the edge.

Consider what you are charging, how busy you are and whether these minor issues are really worth fixing. The quality you can do with the Sigma is just great. This will out do any low quality providers. But you have to keep in mind the TIME it will take you make a "perfect" image.

I use the Nikkor 10.5mm and shoot 6 only. I don't even shoot the top or bottom. I put a cap at the top and bottom. I have had no complaints in over 200 tours.

One last thing. IF you are doing a "high end" job for a special client. Discuss this issue with them. Find out how perfect they want it. I bet they won't care about having a cap. In fact I bet they will ask to have their logo on the cap. If so charge them a little extra for that. Some images may require perfection but not all of them. Its all relative.

The issue of "perfection" comes up a lot. I started out in perfection mode. But I quickly decided that the amount of "perfection" is directly related to the price.

Do you want to "make money" or "make art". Artists typically starve.

General Lee.


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2006-02-11
#18

Gen.Lee,

Those marks can only have come form using an up-shot that hasn't stitched 100% correctly. Using control points will eliminate this problem, but you must have something solid to align. Sky's are not so easy!

I will go along with the tripod cap for advertising. Though I personally don't agree with the top cap.

Regards, Smooth


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2006-02-12
#19
Just shoot me now, but taking the adapter ring of instead of just the lenscap solved that problem

After figuring that one out I tried shooting the bottom by hand, this worked out very good allready. But then I tried stitching without T+B and I must say.... Amazed!!! Leaving only the pinholes at top and bottom (+ a bit of tripos legs), thats the way to go definitly. Maybe with complex ceilings and floormozaics or something I'll shoot those pics too, but overall I think shooting just 4 could be enough.

I'm going for my signature over a retouched bottom preferable, when too hard I'll place a cap. I dont like the topcap, somehow it takes away the whole "freedom-experience" of the panorama imo, makes me feel like I'm in an inflatable ball.

I've added a little more sharpness with photoshop to make it look more crisp in the end and that really made a difference too.

Now it's time to make a lot of 'em for practise, gain experience.

Thanks for the help guys!


(@ zxcvbnm: no import taxes where paid. It saved me around 150 USD including the shipping costs.)


www.360photo.nl
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2006-02-12
#20

Argh, the lens ring on the Sigma has caught a fair few users and explains a lot.

Good luck with your results, we all look forward to seeing them.

Regards, Smooth


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2006-02-14
#21
I've heard a few people say they angle the camera up by a degree or two so they get more overlap at the top and a larger hole at the bottom where there is just the tripod head. Don't know how well panoweaver deals with that but worth a try.