panorama software,virtual tour software
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Joined: 2002-05-23
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Posts: 122
2006-02-15
#1

nikon 8700 stitch

Hello all. As some of you may know, I have been old school - still using Nikon 995 with 2 pano stitch..but I have purchased all new cameras and eqipment and am looking for a little help.

I am experimenting with the 3 pano stitch using Nikon 8700 FC-E9, Agnos MRotator with CP8700 bracket. (for those looking to upgrade, I see not much of a difference in quality for online VT's..but fullscreen or dvd tours look great!)

The first few stitches I have completed look pretty good, and with a little manual adjustment, I can get them near perfect..but I am wondering if anyone maybe has a standard Center X, Y, Radius setting for the FC-E9 in panoweaver..?

I am sure I will stumble acros the perfect setting at some point..but maybe you can help speed up the process for me.. :)

Also, at some time I seen someone post a message about a nice program to help with window enhancement..?..I am currently cloning good windows over the overexposed windows, but if I can get some advice as to which program is out there that might do it all in one click..would be great!

Thanks for your time.

Kris


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Joined: 2002-05-23
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2006-02-16
#2

Gen. Lee,

Thanks for your post..but I will have to respectfully disagree. After doing this for as many years as I have, I have enough understanding about fisheye to know that there is a maximum X,Y,Radius for the FC-E9. Of course yes, it depends on the lighting as to what initial result you get, but thats the reason I am looking for the standard Y,Y,R size of the E9. If you have dark images (for windows), and you adjust your X,Y,R to those basic standards, you will be surpised at how accurate you will get the stitch the first time...without "tweaking"!

Thanks anyway.

Kris


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Joined: 2005-05-15
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2006-02-16
#3

I guess we agree to disagree.....LOL

Like you, I have been doing this for a long time as well.

I was referring to the outer edges of the hemi. Depending on the light the edges will have the blue band and some loss of detail there. Although you can find the center (X,Y) when you pick the R value this assumes the hemi is completly round. Due to the different effects of light striking the lens at different angles this will produce at times a non round image. I mean a non round "stitchable" area. Not counting the very edge where detail is lost.

I tried to find these values but found it was not consistant enough. I got better results by just auto stitching each scene. I opened the hemi up in photoshop and measured the pixel dimension and tracked down the exact center. I then tried to measure the radius. This worked fine except that I found the hemi was not always at the same spot in the image. It seemed that the hemi would be off by several pixels at times. I also found that the hemi was not renedered on the ccd at the exact center. This was with the CP950 and CP5000.

In my experience this seems to happen when you are shooting a scene with large bright windows. When the dynamic range is very great from one side of the room to the other.

In scenes where this is not so bad you should get very uniform hemis and a pre set values should work nicely.

I guess  you have to ask why a stitch does not come out with pre set values.

But, hey if you can find values for your set up that work every time by all means use them LOL.

My experience has been with the FC-E8 lens. The FC-E9 has a different element design so I may be all wrong.

Smooth, straiten us out....

General Lee

 


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Joined: 2002-05-23
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2006-02-16
#4

No..I think we partially agree.

My experience is with the E8 also..and for the most part, when setting X- 1047, Y - 757, and R -757, you pretty much have it covered..in the brighter photos. Where we agree is in the darker photos. As you know, many times when stitching the dark images, the X,Y,R will be initially WAY off..so with some standard settings, it would get me "close"..and with the darker images, all I need is close, because I am only using them for the good windows. The seam doesnt even matter, other than getting the windows to be the same size in both dark and light images.

The E9 is all new for me, so I am trying to get the system down before going out with the new setup. With the E8, I could stitch a 2 pano with the standard settings to near perfection..with some tweaking at times...but mostly without ever having to enter manual mode.

Working with these 2 systems may be very different, and not even comparable, so just trying to cut some "trial and error" time..thanks again.

Kris


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Joined: 2004-04-14
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2006-02-16
#5
Hi Kris,

Interesting posts.

I have the E8 and will try the x,y,r settings. I've toyed around with them in the past but didn't have a point of reference to validate the settings. I'll try your settings and see what I get.

Thanks,
eagle
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2006-02-16
#6

You cannot really "share" X - Y  values as the sensor positioning in each camera can vary quite a bit. Though sharing good workable values from one set up is a good "starting point" for another. Really you need to work this out with your own camera / lens combo.

Remember 3 shot will inherently give move stitching issues by virtue of on more image being added into the stitch. Be sure to apply the values you set to "all" images before stitching.

I personally haven't stitched any full circular 3 shots in quite a while because I use DSLR mainly these days. But as pointed out by Gen.Lee the auto-stitching works best with Panoweaver 4.0 once you have set a good "R" radius using the fisheye enclosing circle. You will find though, cropping the blue/black (band) area too hard can cause issue's. So better to allow some to be present in the cropping circle.

Bottom line, I would use shared X - Y values as a starting point only. Most likely sharing the R value would be fine. But you can easily set this up with good eyesight.

Regards, Smooth


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2006-02-16
#7

There is no "perfect setting".

The stitching depends on your image and what details exist.

Every image is different. Depending on how the light is passing through the lens will determine how "round" your image actually is. Each hemi is not necessarily the same shape. This is why you have to "tweak" the image at times.

HDR is what ou are refering to. I use "Photomatrix". There are others. Search for "High Dynamic Range" and you will find much information on this. There are many posts in this forum you can find by searching here.