panorama software,virtual tour software
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Joined: 2006-08-06
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2006-08-06
#1

Blurry & Soft

Im very new to all of this...

Im having trouble getting my panoramas to appear in focus after they're stitched.  Im using a coolpix 5000 and a nikon fc-e8 fisheye converter along with the nodal ninja pano head...I have no problems with the nodal point or the light/white balance.  Im using the AE Lock and the pictures stitch together perfectly.  I take three pictures in 120 degree intervals starting with the most light at my back.  After loading them in my computer, they look pretty good in a jpeg preview program, not perfect but pretty good...then I load them into panoweaver and pre-stitch them together at web broadband size and they look much more blurry and soft.  All of the equipment I use I bought because this site recomended  it for use with their software.  Is it necessary to take 4 slightly zoomed fisheye photos and stitch them "drum" style to acheive clarity given my current set-up? If so, then easypano should remove my equipment from the recommended equipment list for spherical panos.  Also when I tried the drum shooting method i get mismatching points which I never get using the three shot 120 degree intervals...

Please help if you have any suggestions. 

Thanks!


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2006-08-07
#2

Pre-stitch is not the same as stitched. It is just a crappy preview to give you an idea on what the "stitching" will look like.

Showing the result online will get you more advise.

Regards, Smooth


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2006-08-07
#3

thanks for your quick reply!

I shouldn't have specified "pre-stitch" because I had tried the proper stitch to no avail as well...Here is a link to the properly stitched jpg. 

www.americanminorlive.com/pano/kitchen360.jpg

Like I said Im new to all of this so I purchased the recommended equipment, however, if my equipment is junk what would you suggest?  Obviously I'd rather save what little money I have left and figure out a way to use my camera and lens combo.  Thanks again for taking a look.

take care,

Gragg 


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Joined: 2005-08-04
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2006-08-07
#4
Lower the ISO Speed to 100. The photo looks like it has a lot of "noise" or digital artifacts. On my 300D this type of quality begins on anything over 400.
John R Sembrot
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2006-08-07
#5

Here's an example of a panorama that I shot using the iso 100 setting.  It is better than the pano I took at iso 400, but it still seems too soft and blurry.  Is this representative of the quality I can acheive using the coolpix 5000 and fc-e8 lens?

www.americanminorlive.com/pano/pano_Kday_100.jpg

I took these three shots with iso @100, AE Lock On, Lens: F1, Noise reduction on,  and image sharpening on....the quality is set to fine....panoramic image size in panoweaver set to web broadband. 

Any help as always is greatly appreciated.


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2006-08-07
#6
Have you tried to manually improve the quality of the picture with a software like Photoshop? Paintshop pro?
Alexandre G.
MSN: agagnaire@chablinet.com
Nikon D50 - Nikkor 10.5mm - NN3 - Manfrotto055CLB - Panoweaver 4.0 - Tourweaver 2.0
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2006-08-07
#7

You will need to shoot the photo's in RAW (.nef) format. Then learn how to adjust the settings for best results. I personally recommend you use Photoshop CS2 Raw Converter.

You need to remove the digital noise and colour noise along with adjusting the Luminance etc. You can get lot better results form the Nikon 5000 then what you are showing.

If you feel this is not the solution for you then you must go to DSLR. But you will still need to learn how to adjust RAW images correctly to get the most out of the equipment being used.

Regards, Smooth


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2006-08-07
#8

Shooting RAW will definitly improve things.

However, I offer this advise if you choose to shoot jpegs.

First, never use an ISO over 100 with this camera. You will get considerable noise if you do. The only reason you would up the ISO is in a very low light situation and it is the ONLY way you can shoot the scene. Other than that dont do it

Second, you should learn to use the camera in full manual mode. Set the aperture to F8. Use shutter speed to control your expoure. Your lens will perform better at a constant aperture of F8. Apertures larger (smaller F number) will create a softer image. Apertures smaller (larger F numbers) will cause "diffraction" which is the bouncing of light waves off the edges of the aperture blades. This causes soft images as well. You can however go up or down one or two stops if necessary depending on the lighting situation. More on that in a moment.

Set focus to infinity. Do not use auto focus.

Set the lens setting to F1. This is the correct setting for your lens. It will cause the camera to zoom all the way out and go to infiity focus. You will get a full circle image this way. You  shouldnt be shooting drum images with this set up. If you want more quality shoot 4 images instead of 3. The more pixels you have to work with the better your image will be.

Select the proper white balance. Do not use "auto white balance". Use either "direct sun" or "incandescent". If you have mixed lighting like in your example where there is a lot of sun coming in the windows and some incandescent form lights in the room, use "direct sun". If there are no windows like in a bathroom use "incandescent". If you images turn out with a yellow cast you can remove this in photoshop with a color correction or use the "photo filters". Shooting RAW will avoid white balance problems as you can set correct white balance before rendering the images without loosing any quality.

Control your exposure: Using AE lock is correct. AE lock will lock ALL the settings if you are shooting in "auto" mode. Auto mode lets the camera choose the exposure settings. In this mode the camera will most likely select an aperture out of the acceptable range. You just have no control over the exposure settings this way. If you want to  meter the scene then switch to auto and look at the shutter/aperture setting the camera has chosen. You can then switch back to manual and set these as suggested or change them to values you want.

If you go to full manual "M" on the camera you can set all these your self and you dont have to use AE lock. You would set the following in the shooting menu
Lens = F1
ISO = 100 , don't use auto.
focus = infinity
zoom = none, ie full circle image
Noise Recuction = off
Sharpening = normal or off.
image adjustmant = normal
contrast = normal

On the CP 5000 you can set up 3 seperate "shooting menus". You shoud set the first one to these settings. This way when you get ready to shoot all you do is select this menu and all the settings are set for you so you dont have to do this every time.

A simple example of shooting a scene:
The room is just like your example. Mixed lighting and a some what low light situation as most interior rooms have.

With the camera set to lens F1 go to manual. Set the aperture at F8. You can now take a few test shots with different shutter speeds. In your example you would probably have to set a shutter speed of around 1/30 or 1/15 to get a good exposure. Or you can set the camera to "aperture priority" which will allow you to select the aperture and the camera sets the shutter speed. If you do this rotate the camera around and you will see that the camera selects a different shutter speed based on where you are pointing which is based on the amount of light the camera is metering at that point. Watch the shutter settings. Point at the darkets part of your scene and then at the


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2006-08-07
#9

I had my Nikon 5000 out today to shoot a sample image.

You can view it here

This Nikon Coolpix 5000 set is still for sale see this thread.

Regards, Smooth


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2006-08-07
#10

Smooth, you are the man....LOL

Great image. Nice composition. And great sharpness and quality. Heck your image looks as good as what I get out of my 10.5mm

Goes to show you its not the equipment but how you use it.

General Lee


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2006-08-08
#11

Thanks everyone for all your suggestions and solid advice.  General Lee, I really appreciate the time you took, and the detail you went into, to make sure I understood.  The photos are looking much better when I manually set the exposure.  I took the photos at F8 and a shutter of 1/2...(after checking several speeds this was the best) the windows are still a bit blown out but Im taking it one step at a time.  There is considerably less noise in these manual photos so I thank you so much.  And smooth the scene looks great!  Im very glad to know that it's possible to accomplish this quality with my camera. 

take care,

Gragg