Downloaded your images and gave it a try. The following is stitched in PW4, Full Frame 6 + X, 6 no top. When it asked if I wanted to manual edit points chose no. Result
As far as the exposure blending I too am learning how to do away with the dark to light issue, so I will not be of much help to you in that area.
As far as the stitching is concerned I will be doing nothing but guessing here. The 360 precision head states the nodal point is identified and ready for camera mount and shoot. At this point I feel something is not lining up correctly. If you take images DSC_045 and DSC_046 and look closely at the sun in comparison to where the roof of the barn is, it is not lined up. Looking at the stitched image above you can that the sun does not look as it should (looking at the single image of DSC_045)
I am using a Canon with a Sigma 8mm (fisheye) and know nothing about your setup. I did want to respond to let you know that I did give it a go but can not really tell you which direction to go, other than not to give up. Hang in there, lot's of good help here on the forum.
To all others here on the forum; Is there somewhere to tell PW4 how much overlap you want ? Just another thought to this issue.
OK, Smooth, that's just embarrasing.....(and beautiful, because I know it can be done)
I can take constructive criticism, so feel free to tell me what I'm doing wrong!
Pixel, thanks also for taking the time to download and stitch the pics. I think you may be right about the nodal point being off, so I need to look at that again. As far as the exposure goes, I still don't have a clue. I do set the white balance, the lock exposure in manual mode, so I don't understand why the shift from frame to frame.
But then again, they worked for Smooth.
I do feel like I have answered these questions a hundred times before and I do think if you read the forum you would find the answers pretty easily.
I will offer some tips though!
- Shoot RAW not .jpg
- Learn how to process RAW images to make life easier
- Use Manual mode and use the internal light meter to meet the required "average" light needed.
- Do not use "auto-focus" use manual focus and find the "real" infinity of your lens. (It rarely matches the mark on the lens)
- Never change any setting on the camera or the camera level between shots.
- Avoid ever shooting the sun direct on.
- Learn how to blend with Photoshop tools "Clone and Healing"
Some other things to mention:
- Panoweaver doesn't have and has never had any form of colour blending feature. We can only HOPE that the next release (Panoweaver 5.0) allows either/or Enblend or Smartblend plug-ins.
- 360Precision panoheads are an overpriced panohead and designed to work only with PTGui/PTMac or equivalents. How accurate the position of the NPP is is not even really relevant as the (above mentioned) software corrects degrees of imperfection. Unlike Panoweaver that require better NPP positional set up (and) lots of objects/items to "auto" assign control points too. What these 360Precision heads are good for is repeatable shooting to be use in conjunction with a "purpose self made" camera/lens matched template (using the above mentioned software) and of course the lightening your wallet.
- It is not the Nodal Point you are forever chasing but the NPP (Non Parallax Point) The nodal point is a completely different thing (wrongly referred to for many years).
- The NPP is not a stationary item and will move depending on how near or far an object is to the lens. (Up to 4mm in fact)
- It is a myth that spending money on the "best" Camera, Lens, Software, Tripod or whatever will make perfect panoramas with only minimal learning and effort. (it can't be done)
If you must:
If you must shoot .jpg because you can't be bothered learning how to process RAW images (your crazy!) but none the less.....
Set your White Balance to match that of the scene your shooting. I.E: the above panorama = Sunny. There is NO reason to up the ISO and it should be keep at it's lowest number ISO 50 (Nikon) ISO 100 (Canon) Raising the ISO one step allows "Half as much light in to the camera on each step" this is useful only for times were you have little light and still require a set shutter speed. Basically never (unless your shooting in doors with little light) the shutter speed should be set to match that of the internal light meter. I find that the Nikkor 10.5mm is best suited to F/11 aperture in all conditions. You should always use the AE-L and reset it after each panorama photo set. The main reason for this is that it will lock all the "vital" settings including White Balance, Aperture, Shutter Speed, Focus Metering, ISO etc.
Finally, I offer one on one via ICQ Instant Messaging and Email personal tuition to help people overcome any of their panorama making problems from shooting to online projection (Go-to-whoa) for a modest hourly fee. We go over each problem as it arises until we have it sorted and you are producing the panoramas you always wanted.
When you consider the amount you have outlaid for Hardware and Software a little more on how to get the most from it by way of tuition is very advisable for some people. Typically 3 to 4 hours over a period of days or weeks and your done.