panorama software,virtual tour software
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2004-02-02
#12

G'day Ice9,

Nice looking Panohead! Was it camera specific? The top section I mean?

Does it have click stops?

I'm sure all of us are happy you found something useful in this thread. We look forward to seeing some of your work.

Please don't get me wrong about the CP5400 and FC-E9 lens, the point I was making is that is is softer than the CP9XX-4500 with FC-E8. That's not to say you cannot produce good panoramas with this set up!

Show us some results

Regards, Smooth


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2004-02-02
#13

Hey Smooth.

No, this head was not cam specific and it seems from my research that the huge FC-E9 is one of the odd-balls, therefore I'm gathering that if it fits it; it will fit almost any CP series. Yes it does have click stops. The only drawback I've found is just it's size... doesn't exactly fit in your pocket, although if you could fit it in there it might attract women. (He He  Just a joke... hope your not a lass!)

I took my very first 3 pic pano tonight of my kitchen for a test and it turn out better than I expected. I'm very new to the game so I wasn't really sure of the advantages of 3 pix over 2 pix, but it seems like aside from being overall bigger it stitched with absolutely no manual tweaking or anything... straight from the cam to pano. I wasn't sure how to post it cuz it's real big so if your interested in checking it out it's here http://www.virtuatours.com/images/kitchen.jpg

I didn't have time to set-up a page and implement the html (It's 1:15am here) so sorry it's just the panorama .jpg

The lighting is still a little bright and over-bearing but the detail is much better (thanx again) than I've ever gotten.

Have a good night, Smooth.

Ice9


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2004-02-02
#14

Thanks for ur image Ice9... I see what u mean with the lighting issue. What I tend to do is to take multiple shots with differing exposures in the same direction... usually 2-5 and then use a base shot and useing photoshop, copy and blend in the other shots for hi/lowlights. This will help when working with blown out (overexposed) windows or lights... or will bring up detail that is otherwise lost in darkness. I'll tend to copy my base image (always the spheres) ontop of an image I want to use for blending actions and use the erasure with a soft edge to remove sections I want exposed. A good trick is to reduce the coverage of the erasure to say 50% so that u only get part of the underlieing image come through. This will help ensure smooth transitions between light and dark. Also, it's worth setting ur white balance to a given setting apart from automatic as the colour differences between images, when turning, can be to harsh (set to cloud, sun, light bulb.....).

Photoshop 7 has a neat new feature called auto colour which, I find, brings corrects most colour clashes (ur image is very yellow/red distorted) by the press of a button.

cheers Rob

PS... I always wondered if Smooth was a lady...hehehehe ;-) only joking cobber.


If I only had an hour to chop down a tree... I'd spend 45 mins sharpening the axe.
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2004-02-02
#15

Hey! Hang on a minute you two!

You calling me a girl? I'll tell you both one thing! If I was a girl then you wouldn't be calling me a "lady".

Nor would I have time to post here on the forum! LOL (You know, with the dishes and all!) ROFL

Ice9, you are well on your way and you will only learn by doing lots and lots of panos and picking up the tips and skills as you go. As far as blending is concerned, we all have our own methods and with time you will come up with your own as well. First I would take a leaf from Phoenix and get to learn all about "White Balance" and how to set this up with your camera. (I always believe manual 'Custom' settings are best) where you take a picture of a white piece of paper in the room/area under the lighting conditions available where you will be shooting your panorama shots. 3 photo's of each shot at different exposures, so you can work with the best results available. 

Regards, Smooth


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2004-02-02
#16

Hey guys, thanx for the help. It's all about resources and you guys are one heck of a resource.

I've seen the white balance adjustment on my cam but at the time didn't need another variable to question since I didn't know how to tell the right setting from the wrong one, but your direction and test method gives me some confidence.

I used to design and create artwork for printing (t-shirts, signs etc.) as well as web graphics so I've been using Photoshop since version 4.0 and I have version 7. I really like the method of overlaying 2 photos and blending out the harsh aspects using a soft eraser... great idea!

I'll keep doin' panos and hopefully aquiring knowledge and if I have any major break-throughs I'll let you know.

With much Graditude,

Ice9


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2004-02-02
#17

Speaking of t-shirts?  Has anyone thought about putting a panorama on a t-shirt?

Have the panorama start on the chest height left side .. continue around across the back connecting to the beginning??

Talk about thinking outside the box.... hmm interesting

I suspect that anyone can make one using the reverse print contact transfer iron on paper.

Getting it to line up properly would be an interesting task. 

Getting a lot of T-Shirts made up in time for college spring break and summer time fun would be a challenge.

Dave


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2004-02-03
#18

Interesting point... I'll do a bit of research and let u guys... and ... oops sorry and the ladies... know... teehee...

Crap joke... What are you doing wrong if the wife keeps coming out of the kitchen and complains??? Left the chain to long.


If I only had an hour to chop down a tree... I'd spend 45 mins sharpening the axe.
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2004-01-22
#19

Hi Tom,

I will play around with your images later.

But first I thought I should mention a couple of things.

  • The 5400 and FC-E9 lens are not as crisp and clear as previous version of Nikon products. (Such as the FC-E8 and 990/4500/5000 combo) So you will need to come to grips with this. The lens is softer (and much bigger!)
  • The most important thing is to capture as many pixels per shot as you can. Your images do not go anywhere near doing this. Your fisheye image is a pin head of the size of your photograph. My advise is to fill the frame as much as possible (edge to edge) If the CP5400 has a Fisheye 1 mode "Use it!" at least until such time as you have a better grasp on using the "manual" setting of your camera.

Look up a thread that Phoenixrising posted some time back on his special method for capturing more pixels.

I hope this helps you for the moment.

Regards, Smooth


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2004-01-22
#20
Thanks smooth, I still have my 990 and fish-eye.  I will reshoot using those and look up that mentioned thread. 
T. Hall
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2004-01-22
#21

To use even more pixels, you should have the cam in horizontal mode, zoom in even more so that the top and bottom of the image hits the edges... u can even go a touch over as u have 190deg. the sides will be cropped... but that's ok as u only need 120deg across and will have at least 140 across. This is for a three shot stich. U'll gain even more pixels and therefore a  cleaner image.

Oh yeah, don't select fe1 or 2. Instead select M and by toggling the mode button u'll be able to switch between shutter speed and aperture. U'll want f8.0 or higher (Well at least thats true with the FC-E8) and shutter speed u'll control with the wheel. U'll see a light meter --> I---I---I---I---I---I which looks a bit like this, with underexposure left and overexposure right. (It's worth taking a shot over, correct, underexposure for photoshop blending work). Also, depress M-Focus and turn the wheel until u select INF.

These are at least the settings I use with my CP990 and FC-E8

Hope that helps


If I only had an hour to chop down a tree... I'd spend 45 mins sharpening the axe.