panorama software,virtual tour software
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2009-05-21
#12
Ok... let me try it and see what happens... thanks.
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2009-05-21
#13

Make a set of images available again (with your corrected position) and I will stitch them up and look for other issues (like NPP).

Regards, Smooth


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2009-05-21
#14

Please check this out and see if you can help me?http://www.virtualimpact360.com/video/panotest2/panotest2.html

Also here is the new images that I just uploaded. http://www.virtualimpact360.com/downloads/pwtest2.zip

Thanks


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2009-05-21
#15

The fact is you are not taking enough care with control points nor do you really understand how to apply them correctly or how to find errors.

Assign your control point in "Best Fit" zoom level and then after you have assigned them you can now zoom to 100% and reposition them with greater accuracy. You should have control points with errors less than 2 pixels so if you see any higher than this or "red" highlighted errors DELETE them from the project.

The biggest problem you have though, is the fact that your camera/lens is not set correctly to rotate around the No Parallax Point (NPP). Yes, I can get a reasonable result but it would go a lot easier in "auto" stitching mode if the NPP was correct.

The room you are using is also confusing Panoweaver because of the vast space and repeat of items. Like the lights and reflections. This makes it a more challenging scene to stitch.

When I have some more time I will build an instructional movie.

If you need to get up to speed fast I would suggest a one on one live tutorial if it is within budget.

Regards, Smooth   


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2009-05-21
#16

"The biggest problem you have though, is the fact that your camera/lens is not set correctly to rotate around the No Parallax Point (NPP). Yes, I can get a reasonable result but it would go a lot easier in "auto" stitching mode if the NPP was correct."

I followed the advice given at the following sources:

http://www.nodalninja.com/html/canon_settings.html

http://www.red-door.co.uk/pages/productpages/nodal-ninja-parallax-nodal-point.html

So my question is, what are you looking for in correct settings? or how can you tell if it is improperly set?


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2009-05-22
#17

The settings quoted on those web pages are proven time and time again to be incorrect and should only ever be used as a starting point.

If and when you have the correct settings you will see a nadir tripod shape that is perfectly circular.

Lets compare:

See thread about zoning in on perfect NPP via nadir view.

It appears to be your lower left to right that is out more so than the upper rail so maybe you haven't followed the correct procedure on the positioning edge?

I would suggest:

  • Check NPP against the starting chart
  • Shoot another scene with more objects in it equally spaced from the camera/lens that aren't repetitive with a 5 degree tilt down.
  • Stitch the horizontal row of 4 and look at the tripod in the nadir view and compare against my visual chart and make adjustments where necessary.
  • When happy go back to normal shooting procedure and attempt a full stitch once again.

Regards, Smooth


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2009-05-22
#18

Thanks Smooth, now I have a better idea of what I should be looking for in setting the npp. I have tried your tips and this is where I am. I don't know if I should move the lower bar over to the right a tad bit more or do I need to move the top back a little? I am thinking to the right a tad, but wanted to get your opinion. This is 15 degrees down 6 around.


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2009-05-22
#19

You are sort of on the right track.

You should only shoot 4 around and tilt down should only be 5 degrees because you are using the Sigma 8mm circular fisheye. Understand this is method is not to shoot a picture of the panohead but a consequence of shooting.

Still, what you have now is far better when compared to where you were at.

By the picture shown, you are too far forward on the upper rail but I will reserve judgment until you have shot the images as stated (4 around with -5 degree tilt)

Regards, Smooth


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2009-05-22
#20
Ok... let me switch out my detent ring and I will try again... thanks
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2009-05-22
#21

Ultimately you will end up shooting 4 around with +7 degrees tilt (up) and stitching these images. The reason should be self explanatory. With this slight tilt up you will totally close the zenith hole/star and thus take the requirement of shooting an up zenith shot out of the equation.

Shooting this way will of course open the nadir hole, but the nadir is always going to have the tripod/panohead in view and will either be covered with a cap or cloned/healed/patched out totally. So really what we are saying here is that shooting an up or down shot is pointless with the exception of perhaps a handheld nadir shot or a (up) zenith shot because you need the extra clarity/sharpness because something other than a pain ceiling or blue sky is in view. I.E: A highly ornate painted ceiling etc. 

Shooting 4 around with tilt will only yield excellent results so long as the NPP is perfect or very close to it.

Regards, Smooth