panorama software,virtual tour software
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2004-03-07
#12

Hi Floris,

I played with your images and also got a so-so result.

You are not very far out though! I hope you marked or memorised where you were at? As a couple of millimetres and you will be spot on! Dave's example shows you are getting close and with some more testing you will be on the money in no time.

I have seen work by "so called" experts that are worse then where you are at already! So don't despair - you almost have it.

The Kaidan website also posts on nodal points http://www.kaidan.com/nodalpoint.html

Also instructions should have come with your CS Panohead from Kaidan.

Good luck.

Regards, Smooth


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2004-03-07
#13

I got to play'n with your images!

Check the pano out here

Regards, Smooth


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2004-03-08
#14

hi smooth, nice looking graffity indeed. You used the first set of images which were shot in FE1 mode. However, to get the higher resolution, i'm trying to use manual mode whereby as explained in earlier posts the camara is set to INF and the Zoom is used to get as much as possible of a circle in the vertical. The sides wil fall away. The results as shown are very very bad.

Anyway, still you edited the pictures very nice indeed. I would appriciate if you could have a look at the second set of pictures...Cheers got to work...

already many thanks for your time and effort.

floris 


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2004-03-08
#15

The nodal point (NP) is a function of the lens.. not the camera.  Once you have determined the nodal point be sure to INDEX permanent tick mark the camera and pan head so that you may safely remove and reinstall the camera to the same NP position.  I put a small etch mark on the bottom of the camera and directly across on the pan head.

Now after indexing camera and pan head you know you are reasonably certain that the images are taken properly. 

NEXT is the software settings.  For the 183 deg FE-C8 fisheye lens.. Panoweaver will need a FOV of around 189 - 190 deg with a 20 +/- blending.

Dave

 


/s/
Dave
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2004-03-08
#16

I believe you are trying to come to grips with Phoenixrising method. By setting the camera to manual and zooming as to crop the edges.

I have not personally had to much success with this method. (Though I haven't really tried that hard!) My results are fine without trying to stretch the camera to it's limits. Roberts has had good success though! Remember you must not adjust the zoom from shot to shot and auto focusing must be disabled or you will get different values between shots. If you are unhappy with the pixel display. You really would be better of with a higher pixel count camera. Your stitching is very close when you use the camera and Panohead the way the instructions explain and the result I played with seemed good enough quality for the camera you own.

Regards, Smooth


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2004-03-08
#17

i think the tour looks good. what's the fuzz all?

i think floris is very and maybe at the nodal. perhaps leveling the head at each shot is whats left.


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2004-03-09
#18

thanks everyone. Yes, indeed I'm trying the Phoenixrising method and yes the zoom and auto focus are disabled in that case. On the previous page I posed two sets of tours. The first made in FE1 mode and the second with the Phoenixrising  method. The stiching of the FE1 pictures went fairly well (smooth also stiched these above). The second set stichted very bad and I still have no clue why the Phoenixrising method will not yield a good result with a cp990.

The reason I like the Phoenixrising method is indeed because of the higher resolution and for this reason a dumped my free ipix pano head. When shooting with the Kaidan panohead in FE1 mode, I could have sticked with the ipix thingy, because there is no benefit using the portrait 'mode' which you achieve by mounting on the kaidan head vs the landscape mode you get when mounting in the ipix thing.

I remains a mistery why Phoenixrising method is so difficult


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2004-03-09
#19

Maybe if you ask Robert (Phoenixrising) he may like to help your along with his method.

Regards, Smooth


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2004-03-09
#20

Hi guys... back from London... and real busy right now... Looks like the 7 tour 90 sphere sports club thing with 100.000 CD's will happen though. Am feverishly trying to learn a 3d prog called AXEL which is the bees knees. Want to be able to embed hotspots in 3d rendered environment... have no clue how so am learning more on Java, Dhtml + 3-4 other software products... aaarrrrggghhh. Oh yeah, customer is paying €100 a sphere... and wants various add ons... including a java and quicktime tour for the web and cd.

floris, I got ur mail and will respond. I'll even forward my tel nr. so that we can speak... Germany/Holland ain't that far away.

I'll be back in a few days...

cheers rob


If I only had an hour to chop down a tree... I'd spend 45 mins sharpening the axe.
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2004-03-09
#21

I'm somewhat stumped with regards to Floris's problem... I mean it can't just be a nodal point issue as my home made rig gets somewhat loose when travelling and I more or less move the cam back to the nodal point and still get the desired results. HHmm... I've had a look at the images and have had real problems with the stich. The only thing I noticed was that the CCD chip seemed quite off centre to the lens which may be causing this odd behaviour... then again, my old cp990 ccd is slightly off as well... Ho hum... I'll sleep on it and think some more.

PS. have now got 4500... the worst thing about it is.... I should have gotten it earlier... great little cam, crisp shots and good detail... dispite the fact'that the rear viewer is somewhat small.

Rob


If I only had an hour to chop down a tree... I'd spend 45 mins sharpening the axe.