panorama software,virtual tour software
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Joined: 2009-10-06
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2009-10-07
#1

Floor/ceiling picture PW6 Pro

Hi!

We're using PW6 Pro with a Nikon D200 and a Sigma 8mm Fisheye f 3.5 AF.

We have located the NPP of the lens and are shooting 6 images for a 360 view plus ceiling/floor. How would we insert these pictures into Panoweaver for automatic recognition of ceiling/floor?

As of right now we get have the tripod visible, and would like a way to show the floor picture instead. We will be doing a high number of 360 shots so a quick/time efficient solution would be greatly appreciated.

The ceiling photo is taken using 90 degrees up on the tripod, while the floor photo is taken without tripod (moved away and picture taken hand held 90 down over the point where the tripod was during the 360 photos).

Thanks!


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2009-10-14
#2
Mate, I have no real idea how the swapping of .spf files is meant to work. I have worked through the logic and come up blank.

We should be able to select any stitching template we like and the stitching template is a .spf file NOT a .pw project file.

Easypano support needs to explain this.
I mean we have a list of stitching templates (from previous jobs) How do we select one of these and apply it to the current stitching job? They are not listed in the "Stitch with Former Parameters" list. If we "Import" via the manager - how do you apply the selected version to the current project?

Obviously nobody has ever shared a .spf stitching file with me and I have never tried to apply it.

I assumed (maybe wrongly) it would work similar to PTGui "apply template".

cegeland, can you explain the "exact" workflow you used to "attempt" to use the .spf file I sent you?

Regards, Smooth
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2009-10-15
#3

I imported the images I wanted to stich together into a new project. After that I imported the spf file I got from you (drum 4 sample.spf). As you mentioned in the last post I was not able to select stich with former parameters, but when I do a prestich I am able to select the drum 4 sample.spf from the list of former parameters. 

However, this does not seem to work with different images at different locations, so I'm not quite sure what the purpose of the custom stiching template really is. 

In our case moving the camera position on the tripod a few mm towards the right solved our problem about 90%. We now have only _minor_ stiching errors when using the "out of the box stiching template". We'll do some further, minor, readjustments to see if we can get a 100% result without creating any additional, manual control points.


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2009-10-07
#4
All images are imported to the project at the same time. If you are truely rotating around the NPP and so long as the images have discernible overlapping objects the stitching process should be automatic. Below are some suggestions to improve your chances.

With the Nikon DX body range with Sigma 8mm Fisheye fitted you should shoot 4 images in rotation (6 if you like) with +5 to +7.5 degrees tilt up. This will eliminate the need to shoot a Zenith shot at all.

If you are the user of a full frame fisheye like the Nikkor 10.5mm, Tokina 10-17mm, Samyang 8mm or Sigma 10mm Fisheye etc. You will find it better for multiple reasons to shoot 6 around with a -10 or -15 degree tilt and you can shoot the Zenith with a minimum of +60 to +90 degrees tilt up.

Hand held nadir will not be an automated workflow. You will need to assign control points. You can speed up the workflow with a tripod cap with advertising for yourself or client.

Regards, Smooth
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2009-10-08
#5

Thanks for your reply smooth!

Is it possible to take nadir shots without the tripod showing with the camera still mounted on the tripod? We're using a Manfrotto 303SPH tripod.


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2009-10-08
#6
You can tilt the tripod with your Manfrotto 303SPH panohead in an attempt to capture the nadir area but you will be reliant on a fast shutter speed and HDR is going to be out of the question. Many people have tried (some successful, other not) to find a way to shoot the nadir whilst retaining the correct NPP.

See one method here and this is another idea here

Regards, Smooth
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2009-10-08
#7

Thanks for your tips once again smooth!

One last thing - when we shoot 4 pics at 10 degrees up (5-7.5 gave a black spot in the zenith area) we still have some minor parallax errors. Would this indicate that we haven't located the NPP 100%?

Once again thank you very much for your help - it's much appreciated!


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2009-10-08
#8
It is very hard to say because I'm not 100% familiar with the 303SPH footprint (hard to make a square, round). I don't really recommend this panohead for a verity of reasons but still, you can obviously get usable results from it.

You also understand that parallax and stitching errors are not the same thing. You need to have a good spread of control points from the top of the image down to the bottom. 3 to 6 control points is all that is needed per matching pair (more will create problems) but this 3 -6 MUST have a good spread.

It is also very important to make sure the camera is 100% level on the upper arm. A spirit level will confirm this (hotshoe bubble level are ideal for this). When shooting you level up the tripod/panohead for ONLY the first "0" degree starting position. It is of no consequence if the bubble level is slightly out in the other shooting positions so long as when it returns to position 1 (0 degrees maker) it is back to level. Do NOT re-level between shots.

You state you needed +10 degrees tilt to close the Zenith. This seems more then is typically required. This is why I suggest you check for level on your upper arm. Also be sure you have removed the lens cap and lens ring from the Sigma 8mm so that you are getting the biggest FOV (the lens rings pulls off and includes the lens cap).

If you can supply me with a set of images (download) to stitch I could offer more of an opinion.

I realise I may have mentioned things that you already know. But I state them for others who may be reading this thread.

Regards, Smooth
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2009-10-08
#9
cegeland,

I downloaded your images and stitched them up. I would say your NPP is pretty good. What I did notice though was that the tilt up was excessive and causes blending problems at the Zenith. By reducing the size of the crop circle this can be improved for stitching this set of images. But the real fix is to level your camera on the upper rail and reduce the amount of tilt up.

Also your shooting with AWB and there are distinct colour differences between shots. You should have used   Fluorescent, Tungsten or a Custom temperature setting.

Regards, Smooth
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2009-10-14
#10

Thanks a million for your help smooth! The picture you stiched looks great! Sorry for my late reply - I've been away from my computer since friday.

We tried stiching another set of images using the stiching template you made. It was a different location but same camera tripod position and same angle up (just read your post mentioning that 8 degrees is too high - we'll try 5 degrees and try again :). However, the stiching did not go very well, the image looks completely distorted.

In search for a solution I tried to do a normal prestich and then added a couple of extra control points on the top and bottom on every image - that solved some problems, but floor tiles are still a struggle. I might have misunderstood the concept of the stiching template; I though the purpose is to create a perfect image using the same control points on pictures taken at different locations - as long as the camera tripod position/pitch up stays the same? That way we don't have to manually set the control points in every project - or am I totally lost here :) ?

We really appreciate your time spent!


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2015-09-14
#11

I take 6 photos, in portrait at approx 60 degrees to each other to cover the 360.  With the camera tilted up to exclude the tripod. I then point the camera up at the roof/sky for a 7thh shot then removing the tripod and mounting the camera on a monopod take an 8th photo of the ground. Use all 8 in stitch no problem!


Peter1234567