panorama software,virtual tour software
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2009-11-02
#12
Wozza,

Mate, unless I have full image sets to compare and stitch I can only make assumptions. I feel your frustration, we have all been there! Some will forever remain there and a few of us push and push until we have a breakthrough. You are trying to get results by yourself which is admirable but most of this time is wasted if you don't get the end result that is desired. This is why I offer professional paid tuition offsite for this and other software packages.

That said, I will continue to offer pointers and you can make of them what you will.

Firstly your nadir footprint must look "round" after stitching the images.



If you can't see a perfect round circle and three (3) clear tripod legs then you do not have the NPP set properly.

The above sample is 4 shots in rotation with +5 degrees tilt (up) on a NNR1 (albeit with a shaved Tokina lens). Images stitch perfectly with this final corrected NPP.

My tutorial on "Zoning in on perfect (NPP) via Nadir view" should help everybody improve and finally nail the correct position. Allowances must be made for "Full Frame" and "Circular" fisheye lenses. But, the final result are the same a perfect circle.

Once this is perfectly set up, you them can move on to getting a perfect stitch and saving it is a template for future stitching.

Not enough overlap and too much overlap can cause problems when stitching and blending. Some software is better than others and then of course your own photography and workflow comes into play.

Regards, Smooth
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2009-11-19
#13

Hey Smooth.

I went back to PW5 as I was of the belief that I must be able to do it. I have uploaded the result for you to look at here: http://users.tpg.com.au/wjtpg/test.rar . This is as good as I can get it after nearly 1500 shots since beginning with the R1! There is some slight mis-alignment on the coving, but it is as close as I can get to the tiles on the floor lining up and the 'perfect circle'. The problem is, I am not convinced it is right. These images were taken 4+T at -7.5 tilt and the R1 rail setting has gone off the scale - way past 3.50mm up to the point it will no longer move!

I have taken the lens off again and made sure it is 100% correctly fitted to the ring and positioned correctly on the camera body which it is and am so at a complete loss to the point I am even wondering if the instructions on how to position the R1 ring on the lens is correct!

Would appreciate your thoughts mate.

Regards,
Wozza
EOS 450D, Sigma 8mm F3.5 EX DG, Manfrotto 190XPROB


Regards,
Wozza
EOS 450D, Sigma 8mm F3.5 EX DG, Manfrotto 190XPROB
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2009-11-19
#14
Quote: Originally posted by smooth on November-10-2009
Woz,

I had a bit of time to play with the Sigma 8mm on a APS-C DSLR camera.

The correct setting is 24mm @ +5 degrees (use this setting)
I also found the setting for -2.5 degrees is 31mm (not that you will ever use it).

I have stitched this successfully (multiple times) with PW5, PW6 and PTGui.

Regards, Smooth


As I stated above.

24.0mm is correct for +5 degrees and that is all you need to care about as far as the NPP is concerned.

If -2.5 degrees is 31mm (and it is) then at -7.5 degrees you are off the scale.

Take my work for it. You want 24.0mm at +5 degrees.
The rest is up to your control points, stitching skills and software package.

Regards, Smooth
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2009-11-19
#15

Thanks for bearing with me on this Smooth.

Your recommendation of 24mm and a +5 tilt does work very well, unlike the recommended 1.95 at +5 tilt in the R1 manual! However, it was that perfect circle I have been striving for and just not being able to get it that made me keep trying other settings. I guess you must be right in that it must be my stitching skills. Would love to know what you think about how I do it. I have uploaded some images here: http://users.tpg.com.au/wjtpg/+5-2.40.rar that show the settings and the control points that I have manually added and how it turned out. Maybe after all my efforts it is the control points and stitching where I am going wrong. This is all done in the latest version of PW5.


Regards,
Wozza
EOS 450D, Sigma 8mm F3.5 EX DG, Manfrotto 190XPROB
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2009-11-24
#16
Wozza,

More control points are required closer to the tripod.

Regards, Smooth
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2009-11-08
#17

Hey Smooth.

As there is no setting for -5 degrees, I left it on +5 and removed the R1 ring/lens and replaced it back on the slide rail the other way round so the lens is now shooting downward. I assumed this to be -5 degrees? I set the rail settings to various settings and I don't even get close to the bubble level being in shot let alone getting the perfect circle as you can see here (these are just snaps - no time spent on exposures etc!): http://users.tpg.com.au/wjtpg/-5.rar
I am now starting to think I have something fundamentally wrong going on here if I can't even get close? At -5 3.15 though, things line up pretty well and there is nothing there that can't be photospped easily enough so do I need to get it so perfect as to have this perfect circle?

Regards,
Wozza

 


Regards,
Wozza
EOS 450D, Sigma 8mm F3.5 EX DG, Manfrotto 190XPROB
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2009-11-08
#18
Wozza,

Mate, if your happy with those results I wish you all the best.

If you really want to get it right then I suggest you follow my suggestion and find the most suitable tilt down position of the NNR1 using your camera/lens combo (probable -7.5 degrees) and shoot a series of shots at each 1mm spacing between 15mm and 30mm - stitch and compare.

That said, it appears to be pretty close at 19.5mm at +5 degrees. So if your not fussed just use that.

Regards, Smooth
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2009-11-09
#19

Smooth.

No mate, not happy with the results, just really frustrated. As you suggested I have now tilted down to -7.5 and tried different settings on the R1 rail and it seems to be getting better as I increase the rail setting by 0.5mm a time as seen here . Problem now is that I am running out of millimitres!! ! The camera is looking very precarious now and if I adjust it much more, I can see it falling off the R1.

Woz.


Regards,
Wozza
EOS 450D, Sigma 8mm F3.5 EX DG, Manfrotto 190XPROB
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2009-11-10
#20
Woz,

I had a bit of time to play with the Sigma 8mm on a APS-C DSLR camera.

The correct setting is 24mm @ +5 degrees (use this setting)
I also found the setting for -2.5 degrees is 31mm (not that you will ever use it).

I have stitched this successfully (multiple times) with PW5, PW6 and PTGui.

Regards, Smooth
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2009-11-11
#21

Smooth.

I have tried the +5 2.40 setting and it works well. Still have a big footprint to get rid of ( the curved square!) and nowhere near the perfecr circle, but tiles are lining up good.

Have done a lot of testing and am now happy and more confident thanks to yourself and your guidence. I have been practicing now with a handheld nadir. Some minor errors. On complicated designed rugs/carpets, it has been a bit tricky. The rug looks fine, just some mis-alignments here and there on tiles and coving. I'm getting there though, just soooo boring taking repetative shots all the time!!. One question, what would you say is the minimal number of control points that is required. I have all but given up on the ones assigned automatically a I have noticed they can often be way off! I am assigning anywhere between 8-10 as a rule, spread out as much as possible. Does this sound feasible?

Regards,
Woz


Regards,
Wozza
EOS 450D, Sigma 8mm F3.5 EX DG, Manfrotto 190XPROB