panorama software,virtual tour software
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2009-11-11
#22


This is the nadir footprint from a correctly aligned Sigma 8mm on a Canon 10D APS-C DSLR. This is set at 24mm at +5 degrees tilt.

Regards, Smooth
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2009-11-11
#23
Quote: Originally posted by wozzaj on November-11-2009
One question, what would you say is the minimal number of control points that is required. I have all but given up on the ones assigned automatically a I have noticed they can often be way off! I am assigning anywhere between 8-10 as a rule, spread out as much as possible. Does this sound feasible?


With Panoweaver it does need a good amount of well spread out control points. 10 sounds about right per overlapping pair.

Regards, Smooth
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2009-11-12
#24

These are the results I get: http://users.tpg.com.au/wjtpg/images.jpg
I have tried 23.5mm, 24mm and 24.5mm all at +5 tilt. Still not perfect, yet 24mm gives the best result, but as you can see, nothing like your image above for some reason... Why is it so elusive?!?!?!?

 


Regards,
Wozza
EOS 450D, Sigma 8mm F3.5 EX DG, Manfrotto 190XPROB
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2009-11-12
#25
Wozza,

All I can tell you is that PW6 appears to be better at images that are tilted over PW5 where you are restrained to a fix "menu" of images. (Where it expects level 4x Drum etc)

Just as a test, download the trial of PW6 and give that a go and show me the results.

Regards, Smooth
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2009-11-03
#26

Thanks again for your help Smooth, but I gotta tell you mate I have pushed and pushed and pushed!!! I'm not usually a quitter and I like and challange the whole learning of it all. However, there comes a point when you are sure you have exhausted everything and it just ain't happening!!

I have gone back to square one, stripped down everything and put it back together thinking that maybe I have assembled the Sigma 3.5 EX DG wrong to the R1 ring. Follwoing the instructions to the letter, it ended up in the same place which was a comfort!

I feel I am close, but it is tantalisingly out of my reach. I get almost perfect stitching, but NPP must still be wrong as I cannot get that circle in the nadir area. I get a slightly curved square shown here: http://users.tpg.com.au/wjtpg/x/test.rar This is shot with a tilt of +5 and an R1 rail setting of 1.95. It is as slose as I am going to get I think so I am going to have to settle for this and spend time editing it out with Photoshop or insert a lens cap, which is not the way to go I know.

I am disappointed with myself that I could not achieve the 'perfect' pano, but I'll keep trying, just not 10 hours a day!!!

Woz


Regards,
Wozza
EOS 450D, Sigma 8mm F3.5 EX DG, Manfrotto 190XPROB
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2009-11-03
#27


Wozza,

I would say based on the images supplied that the NPP is pretty right at 19.5mm @ +5 degrees tilt up on the NNR1.

I could confirm this with correctly shot images. This would require enough tilt "down" as to capture the panohead and actual panohead bubble level as I showed in a previous post.

The "hole" you have now is relevant to the amount of tilt you are currently using. If you look at my previous post image you will still see this "slightly curved square" as you called it only it is smaller because I have adjust the tilt to allow me to see the panohead once stitched.

You would also gain accuracy by fixing the Chromatic Aberration so things where a little sharper and defined. Shoot RAW and process fixing up this (CA) colour shift. Obviously full size images are best and you really need a room with much more detail to make a good template. Meaning features on both upper and lower area of the images. This can be hard to find so I recommend you use sticky "Post-It" notes of different colours that you can place everywhere with the risk of damage. These will help immensely with placing widely spread control points.

Just as a point of interest you might also try shooting 5 or 6 around and see if this helps you with your stitching as more overlap and features will be available.

Regards, Smooth
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2009-11-05
#28

Thanks for bearing with me there Smooth. I thought I would have a break from this today, but I stuck with it again and am still just as confused to the point of feeling am I missing something completely obvious here?!?! I cannot begin to see how I can possibly get that circle over the panohead.

I don't understand what you mean by "I could confirm this with correctly shot images. This would require enough tilt "down" as to capture the panohead and actual panohead bubble level". As I am using the panohead with a 5 degree tilt up to take the four rotational images virtually none of the head is captured.

Also, using PW5 with the drum fisheye option, it does not have the option of loading 5 or 6 images, unless you know different of course?!?!

Regards,

Wozza.


Regards,
Wozza
EOS 450D, Sigma 8mm F3.5 EX DG, Manfrotto 190XPROB
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2009-11-16
#29
Downloaded it and tried a few stitches, but at the moment, I am finding that it does not stitch as well as PW5!!! I'll do some more and upload the 'best' of them. I think I prefer the layout and features of PW5, for instance, being able to select what type of image and whether or not to use T+B etc. I know it says it does this automatically, but I like to have the option of manually setting these things. I do like the pano previwer - MUCH improved speed wise, however, many, many times it crashes when I go to preview a pano after pre-stitching and after not saving it - what a pain in the butt!! Can't really see much difference between Smartblend and PWBlend other than PWblend is MUCH quicker!
Regards,
Wozza
EOS 450D, Sigma 8mm F3.5 EX DG, Manfrotto 190XPROB