panorama software,virtual tour software
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2004-12-22
#12

Ah  certainly - full screens are target objective in 2005.  Going with adding the "Full screen" option to our site.

Now I guess you are wondering why we went with Canon instead of the D70.  Well for several reasons.  The Canon uses a CMOS sensor and I have been told that it does not have as much of an electrical charge and therefor attracts less dust.  Nikon seems to have "Nikon Blue" color cast trait.  Canon allows you to select a warmer color scheme.  I was particularly attracted to James Yang's image and Samir's (Dubai UAE) World Wide Panorama entry

 http://geoimages.berkeley.edu/wwp904/html/SamirAhmed.html

They used a Canon 10d and a Sigma 8 and captured a highly detailed and very suitable image.  I figure that if they can do that with a 10d, I should be able to do equally as well with the 20d.

Another factor was its quite a jump from our Nikon 990 3.34mp to 8.25mp.  More pixels - More detail etc.

I am still finding when using the 20d I keep trying to use the LCD for the view finder.  Guess I will get around that eventually.  And 990 would emit a 'beep' when the picture was taken.  The 20d mirror mechanical sound lets me know the picture was taken.  It sounds like our 40 year old 35mm film Nikkormat.  You would think they would have come up with some type of mirror noise dampening technique over the years.

There is still some good milage remaining on the 1998 Nikon 990's.  Even though we are starting to see some stuck hot pixels we are only at 9000 images mark.  Just seemed it was time to upgrade our cameras.  In 1998 we set up an 'Equipment Replacement' account and from each contract, set aside a %.of the earnings.  The account had enough in it to cover the camera upgrade.

Those are some of the reasons we decided to go over to the Canon camp.   Oh yes,  I might have to return that lens.  Didn't see the smiley face character in the front optic - must be a manufactures defect.

Dave


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Dave
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2005-01-16
#13

Hi Dave

This may be a silly question but can you use PanoWeaver with that new set up of yours?

Cheers

Steiner


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2005-01-16
#14

Hi Steiner,  It is not a silly question at all.  In fact it is a really good question.  The new set up is in anticipation of Panoweaver 4. 

Now we are using alternative software until PW4 is released.  The alternative lacks ease of use and ability to handle Zenith and Nadir images directly.  I figure it will take me at least January and February to become fully familiar with the 20d before our Mexico Clients photoshoot late February. (first of 2 this year)  When we return with the imaging we will be ready put PW4 through its final form paces.

Click on "Broadband Overlook Full Screen" under the image when visiting this page http://360texas.com

Dave

 

 


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2005-01-16
#15

Oh wow, that is impressive!  How many shots were required and did you use the new camera for this?.  Now that's what VR's should look like! 

My Nikon 8700 is nervously eyeing me as I type this message.    My images would never come this clear - I think the FCE9 causes a great deal more distortion/pixelation than your SLR lens. 

Out of curiosity, how much did this new set up cost?

Steiner


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2005-01-16
#16

Hmm  we shot 6 +0 (no zenith or nadir).  But we had a tiny hole in the sky where the top of the images did not quite meet together. Fixed the sky with photoshop clone tool.  Of course the ground nadir shot displayed a full circle of the pan head, so I used a photoshop action "Cap" glass ball to cover it up.

Keep in mind that the 6 images were taken with an 8mm Sigma 8 full circle lens fitted for the Canon 20d.  However, the Canon's 2/3's rectangle shaped sensor cropped the left and right side of the circle.  So it was 180° Vertical field of view and 140° horizontal field of view.

The Canon body was purchased at $1,499 retail and the Sigma 8 ran $599 I think.  Here is a picture of the 20d sitting on the older Kaidan Kiwi990 pan head.


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2005-01-16
#17

I have one suggestion for anyone shooting raw images.  Then another suggestion for folks that are taking max image size on their  (non Raw) camera.

Every lens or lens adapter seems to have Chromatic Abberation or purple fringe.  You can tell right away after moving your images on to your computer.  Open photoshop or your image editor and open up one of these images and zoom in 400% to a high contrast area like a tree branch against a bright sky.   Look for the purple fringe area

If it is a RAW image photoshop will open RAW in a free PS CS Raw Converter plugin.  Adjust the red channel so that the red/purple is no longer visible and save it as a .bmp or .tif.

Non Raw images simply open and zoom in and use RED Channel adjustment.

RED channel seems to be the offender for achieving sharp images. You might try this RED channel correction on all your images BEFORE you stitch your images.

I talked with Fiore in Italy after he did the red channel correction with his Nikon 5000 and FC-E8.  His corrected images were dramatically sharpened.

 


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2005-01-17
#18

HI Dave

Thanks for the tip - but - where is this red channel correction option?  Is it a plugin option buried in a sub panel?


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2005-01-17
#19
If you're processing non-RAW files in Photoshop try some HSL adjustment. In Photoshop load the image,select Image, Adjustments, Hue/Saturation (Ctrl+U), then select the Blues channel only (Ctrl+5). Move the cursor over the image. The cursor changes to the eyedropper tool. Use the eyedropper to click on the purple fringing. Now make any fine adjustments using the sliders.

Not sure what the red technique is, presumably same as above but adjusts the Reds channel. (?)

If you can, always shoot in RAW mode as Photoshop's RAW plugin loads automatically. Here's how to use it.

Make sure you have the latest version of the free RAW plugin, available from Adobe's site here. Latest version is 2.3 which does not yet support Canon's 20D. However, 2.4 is in beta.

After installing the plugin, open a RAW image file using File Browser. Photoshop's RAW plugin starts up automatically.

Make sure advanced mode is turned on (click on the Advanced button). Click on the Lens tab and use the Chromatic Aberration sliders to remove purple fringing.

A full tutorial of this and all the other tool in Adobe's RAW plugin is available from The Russell Brown Show web site in Quicktime format. Given the nature of this forum, I reckon we'll all have that installed.

I've yet to find a decent tool / plugin for removing purple fringing automatically but if someone knows of one, please post a link.

Hope this helps,
Mark
Cheers,
Mark
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2005-01-17
#20

It's odd.  I downloaded Camera_Raw_2_4_beta.zip and installed it but the plugin window doesn't seem to auto start when I open a raw image in PhotoshopCS.  My cameras output is TIF so I believe this is what it should be happy with?

Thanks

Steiner


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2005-01-17
#21

Oh ok, Yes its the RED Channel adjustment for non raw image sets.  the 2.4 beta does have the Canon 20d  .CR2 file format in it. 

I think in CS you have to open the FILE Browser (not file | open) to look at the thumbnails.  It will display the .cr2's  and when you click on the thumbnail it activates the CAmera Raw Converter plugin.

Then click on the ADvanced radio button. Then as Furry says.. LENS tab.  Works like a charm.

For nonRAW images.. FILE | OPEN  then zoom into a high contrast area (tree against bright sky).. then WINDOWS | Channels  or CTRL +1

Dave 


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