panorama software,virtual tour software
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2005-01-10
#1

Can't see what I'm doing

Hi all

Pardon the long term absence - just been involved in alot of boring web dev with no time for VRs at all - unfortunately.

Having said that, I tried taking some fisheye images whilst in Italy and am having a go at stiching them now.  Sadly, I seem to have to be doing a fair bit of manual stiching with this set but it's really killing my eyes (my face needs to be about 2 inches from the screen to see any bloody detail)! 

Does anyone know if the developers are working on an update for PanoWeaver that will allow either a resizable manual stich window or at the very least, larger preview images.  It's crazy to have a preview window that you can't even see!

Cheers

Steiner


Condottiero - Freelance Multimedia Design
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2005-01-10
#2

While is not the answer to your question.. a few of us here in the forum use XP's Magnifyer option

START | All programs | Accessories | Accessability | Magnifyer

It is sort of like having your own personal screen magnifying glass.

Another option might be to change the resolution of your monitor from 1024 x 768  to 800 x 600.  When you are finished with Panoweaver,  just change it back to the original settings.

I also agree.. trying to view the very small Manual stitching windows is hard to get down to the 10 x 10 pixel level to see anything align properly.

Dave


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2005-01-10
#3
Quote: Originally posted by 360texas on January-10-2005

While is not the answer to your question.. a few of us here in the forum use XP's Magnifyer option

START | All programs | Accessories | Accessability | Magnifyer

It is sort of like having your own personal screen magnifying glass.

Another option might be to change the resolution of your monitor from 1024 x 768  to 800 x 600.  When you are finished with Panoweaver,  just change it back to the original settings.

I also agree.. trying to view the very small Manual stitching windows is hard to get down to the 10 x 10 pixel level to see anything align properly.

Dave


Hi Dave

Thanks for the useful feedback.  I'll give these a go - but hopefully EasyPano will add this to their fix list.

Cheers

Steiner


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2005-01-10
#4

Hey Steiner,

I too hope this is part of the improvement.

But, I have found if you have the correct nodal point and things are perfectly level you really have no need for manual stitching at all.

If you would like a better magnifying glass then the windows option download one from here

Regards, Smooth  


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2005-01-11
#5

There goes Smooth again beating me to the "I've got a useful tool here's my link..." answer again. I've tried both Dave's and Smooths version and have found that as Smooth quite rightly points out... that a good nodal point/panohead will generally limit the need for this detail and that the magnifying effect doesn't really help.

-However, there are many times when I too have been squinting at the screen to try and see what I'm doing.... therefore "resizable windows" please .


If I only had an hour to chop down a tree... I'd spend 45 mins sharpening the axe.
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2005-01-11
#6

Thanks fellas, I'll try this app out as well.

I'm a bit suprised that I am having to do as much hand adjustment this time round...I didn't last time.  I'm using a good tripod with (if u don't recall) an 8700 with the mrotatorb (which is supposed to take care of any nodal issues) and the manfrotto 222 leveller.

The only thing I did differently this time was to level the first shot and not worry about the other 2 (where as in my last trip to Italy I'd leveled all 3).  Perhaps this is the cause?  Anyway, no worries, it's good practice.

Cheers

Steiner


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#7

Steiner,

You should worry about the head of the tripod being level first (this will involve adjusting the legs) then worry about the camera be level second. First shot is all that is important one you start your photography but only after you have levelled the tripod and then the camera with the #222 leveller.

Levelling the tripod is not always necessary so long as the ground is close enough to level but once the ground has variations it should be levelled first.

Regards, Smooth


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#8

Hey Smooth

Ouch, I've 'never' done this.  I've always thought levelling the camera with the 222 was enough.  I have a Velbon Sherpa 250 tripod with the head removed.  In order to level this, I suppose I would need to place a spirit level on top of the quick release plate?


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#9

I find that if you set your tripod up near level,  then level up on image #1, 2, 3.  If you do not level on 2 and 3 you risk the stitching to be in 'stair step' in relation to image #1.  Stair step or camera 'tilt down/up' causes more post processing.

Dave


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#10
Quote: Originally posted by steiner on January-11-2005

Hey Smooth

Ouch, I've 'never' done this.  I've always thought levelling the camera with the 222 was enough.  I have a Velbon Sherpa 250 tripod with the head removed.  In order to level this, I suppose I would need to place a spirit level on top of the quick release plate?


Only needs to be very close to level (eye sight is good enough for me) unlike Dave I have found "Micro Levelling" to cause way more problems then it solves. Also understand we use Mrotator panoheads which may or may not be more stable then what others use. I also use a Velbon with #222 and Mrotator so we are comparing apples with apples!

Regards, Smooth


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2005-01-11
#11

if you can't get the results you want with easypano manual stitch...then the alternate solution would be to try ptgui panotools. mind you that the installation and usability of panotools is not for the average joe due to it's complexity.

thats some handy magnifying tool i didnt know i had...thanks dave.