panorama software,virtual tour software
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Joined: 2005-02-13
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2005-02-27
#1

Help with Mrotator A

Alrighty... got the Mrotor A (FC-E8 and CP 990 and I'm taking worse shots than with the busted Ip*x rotator I have... 2 images not lining up too good! So far off I can't manual stitch to get it right. The level on top of the rotator is good one direction, but off a bit the other. Having to rotate the images (to stitch) seems to be a drag as well, and not helping things. How do I make sure the camera is oriented exactly right... other tips? arrgghh! Thanks.

Amaxis


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Joined: 2003-03-29
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2005-02-27
#2

Trial and error. The problem occurs because while the camera may be perfectly level, the CCD inside may well not be.  This was a frequent issue in early digital cameras.

See how many degrees off horizontal your photos are, and rotate the lens inside the Agnos rotator to compensate. Once you find the exact angle, tighten the screw so it doesn't budge!

 


Robert Jeantet
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2005-02-27
#3

I'm pretty sure the CCD is fine as it worked just great with my old (now bent up) rotator. Since I'm not going to keep the camera atached to the tripod, I'm assuming I would somehow wnat to 1) to get the camera straight... then 2) how to place it in the same spot the next time.

Was there ever any documentation/instructions for the Mrotator A?


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Joined: 2002-11-23
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2005-02-27
#4

You need to place the FC-E8 into the MrotatorA then attach the camera before tightening. Now position the camera to horizontal or vertical level (your choice) but make sure it is perfectly level. Now tighten MrotatorA until lens cannot be turned within the MrotatorA **DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN**

Once you have achieved perfect level and fitment you should leave the FC-E8 as a permanent fixture to the MrotatorA and only remove the camera from the lens (carefully) each time you replace the camera to the lens - MrotatorA it will be in perfect position.

As for the bubble level. You only need have it perfect for shot 1. Shot two or three do NOT get re-levelled.

For more help in setting up your system I will need to see your unstitched images Shots 1 + 2 so I can ascertain where you might be a little out. Simply unload them or email them to me.

Regards, Smooth


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2005-02-28
#5

Hey Smooth,

Well I eyeballed getting the camera in a horizontal position, like I'm used to, and got vastly better results already. With the camera in that position, it's hard to tell where the "Over Tighten" limit is... I don't want it to slip - and I don't want to bust yet another rotator! Do you know what size that wrench is? I want to be sure to have a spare, even if I don't remove the lense.

I should be fine... do you do all your panos with 3 shots? Do you find it that much smoother (sorry!)?

 


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2005-02-28
#6

Yes, 3 Shot is much "Smoother" for sure and fully recommended.

I also set my lens level by eyeballing it. To know how much is tight enough I recommend turning the lens very slowly then tightening slowly until you can no longer turn the lens by hand (even with a bit of oomph!) Then loosen just enough to release the grip (taking note of how far you turned the Allen screw) attach the camera and "eyeball" level again and tighten.

The Allen key size I'm not 100% sure but looks to be around 3mm (Metric)

Regards, Smooth 


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2005-02-28
#7

I alos do 3 panos every time.

Regards Markus


Nikon D70s, Sigma 8 mm, 4 to 12 shots, Agnos MrotatorTShort, PTGui, PS CS3, and lots of other software :-)
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2005-03-03
#8

Thanks for the info guys... and Smooth, I see all at your site. I did have some panoramas of my own posted that a friend could not see... not sure why, no one else had a problem...

And for the 3 shot images... I take it that I won't have to worry about where the seam lies, as with the 2 shot?


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2005-03-03
#9

To be honest I really never worry to much about where the seam lies. But yes! You would be less concerned using the 3 shot method.

If you have the correct nodal point (should be correct is your fisheye is mounted correctly in the MrotatorA) and you have set up 100% level (position one) the only thing that can effect seams is lighting as the stitch should be perfect.

Be sure to use AE Lock feature and reset it after each set of panorama images.

Pay attention to lighting at the seams more so then objects.

Regards, Smooth 


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2005-03-03
#10
Well seam issues are seam issues... however, with a 3 shot u have just got so much more image to play with and will also have a sharper pano. This is due to the inherant fact that fisheye lenses cause the images to soften at at the edges. You can further improve ur with 3 shots if u instead of useing fe1, u zoom in until the top and bottom of the image touch the edge of the view screen. You'll now have an image cropped at the sides approx 140° across and still have ur 183° vertical. This will suffice for stiching, enable u to use more of ur cameras chip and therefore gain in pixels and image quality. You'll also be able to stich in 2000x4000 size if needed.
If I only had an hour to chop down a tree... I'd spend 45 mins sharpening the axe.
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2005-03-03
#11
I'll give that a try - thanks!