panorama software,virtual tour software
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Joined: 2010-07-08
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2010-07-08
#1

shooting technique

Soon I have a sigma 10 mm lens for my Canon 30d and 40D and I would love to do some walking with them and use panowalker to create a virtual tour.

Let me see if I get this right :

- Can I walk with my Camera (30/40D plus sigma 10mm) and take one shot every step I take? Would that give me nice panowalk?

If a map contains multiple paths I just do the missing paths later in the same way?

Do I need to walk  the opposite direction also?

 

 


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Joined: 2010-07-08
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2010-08-02
#2
Hi Smooth,

An update. I have the sigma 10 mm now and I do find Chromatic Aberrations. I also found that when I leave the tube on the corners, where CA is the worst, are cut of nicely and I can do my panorama's using about the same number of photos.
So there's my tip for other sigma users or owners of lenses with a tube on.
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2010-08-02
#3

Hello Hans,

Glad you feel you have a solution to the Chromatic problem. Looking forward to see the results where we can make a final assessment.

Regards, Smooth [8D]


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2010-07-09
#4

To create a walk, you need to shoot a full panorama every 80cm (1 step) using the Sigma 10mm on a Canon 30D/40D/50D etc you need to shoot 6 rotational shots 1x Zenith Shot and a 1x Nadir Shot in the traditional way and stitch with Panoweaver or similar.

Possibly you could not bother with the Nadir shot and simply restrict the tilt down so this blank area could not be seen.

A better lens to use for this type of shooting would be a Sigma 8mm which would only require 4 shots in rotation with +5 degrees tilt up.

Each path is separate and you can add to a project and re-publish as required.

Because each step is a full panorama you only need to shoot walking in the one direction.

Regards, Smooth  [8D]


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2010-07-11
#5
Hi,

Reading your instructions I understand that this is not something to be using on long walks like 5 KM or so. More something you use when doing a less then 100 meter walk, resulting in 125 panorama's to be made. It does however allow people to have a detailed look.

You are right that the wider the angle the less shots you have to make.
However if you include the time needed to move the setup 80 cm each time, it will not result in saving 33% of time needed.

Therefore I found it more important to have a f2.8 lens which, because of the 10mm, will also work very well in situations where many people are in a smaller place with little light. Weddings for example where it will be great to capture everyone standing around something happening.

Therefore this lens serves me better and sounded like a good investment.
Once I make lots of money making panorama's I can always invest in the 8mm lens :-) If I don't make that money I end up with a lens that can also be used for other photography, as said, weddings etc.

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2010-07-11
#6

While you put forth some argument for time and light, it falls short in a number of areas when it comes to panoramic photography.

Time is relevant to not only shooting but also time needed in stitching and correct control point placement. The fact you also must tilt the panohead every time you need to shoot the Zenith and then Nadir shots.

As for the f/2.8 vs f/3.5 we are only talking one f stop in total. Sure the extra light is useful in "normal" photography but when it come to shooting professional panoramas you will never use the lens wide open as this effects the total depth of field. Panoramas require focus from near to infinity in just about all occasions. The sweet spot for the Sigma 10mm Fisheye is f/11.0 and Sigma 8mm is f/8.0 these are well known and adopted facts. Potentially f/5.6 at a stretch, this remains a long way from the f/2.8.

On another note the Sigma 10mm suffers badly from Chromatic Aberration and most in the know avoid this lens if favour of other options. If you heart is set on a lens that has more universal uses outside and along with panoramic photograph I would suggest you look at the Tokina 10-17mm Zoom Fisheye lens. Which you will find of higher quality and priced extremely competitively.

If my word is not enough I suggest you visit many other professional panorama photography forums and seek further reassurance on the matter.

The one thing I can tell you to avoid is advise from camera store sales people on fisheye lens advise. Their knowledge is limited in this very specialised field.

Regards, Smooth [8D] 


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2010-07-11
#7
Hi Smooth,

I know we do not shoot our panoramas at f2.8.
To have the f2.8 is just something I like for other situations and photography.

Regarding the Chromatic Aberrations, I think it will be oke in live world.
I take a risk here of course. If have already ordered the lens and hope I like it.
As said, when making the money I can always buy the 8 mm. I prefer fixed lenses for panoramas to avoid any accidental mistakes.

My nodal ninja 5 allows me to take the upward shot very quickly and the downward shot is also quickly done. I have no worry here.

Processing and stitching photo's I do with software that allows me to process a day of shooting in very short time. What I shoot by day, needs one hour of work behind the computer and is then processed into panorama's while I am asleep and partly during the next day. Control point placement is only done occasionally.
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2017-04-20
#8

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tony12
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2017-05-25
#9

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2017-05-26
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heatherrosado
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2017-08-09
#11

Using Panowalker Was Great Experience And It Is A God Software..!!
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