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Subject Topic: New Site, Thoughts ??? Post Reply Post New Topic
Message posted by myvirtualagents on June-02-2005 at 4:02am
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myvirtualagents
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May-28-2005
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Just finished my new website, any thoughts

www.myvirtualagents.com

 


Message posted by phoenixrising on June-02-2005 at 4:36am
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January-16-2003
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Hi there,

my first and most obvious thought is the fact that your images (2 sph) have colour and light differences. It would be worth looking at your image workflow to correct this issue. eg do you have auto white balance set?? you shouldn't. Do you have a set exposure time?? you should.... What kind of cam set up are you useing?? Otherwise your site is easy to use and informative. Very nice.



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If I only had an hour to chop down a tree... I'd spend 45 mins sharpening the axe.

Message posted by VT360 on June-02-2005 at 1:47pm
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January-04-2003
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phoenix,

what is your auto white balance setting? how do you work it?


Message posted by VT360 on June-02-2005 at 2:40pm
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January-04-2003
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myvirtual,

in one of your pages i clicked on the home button and got

http://www.myvirtualagents.com/default.html  404 page.

 

i like your order form script, where can i get it?


Message posted by myvirtualagents on June-02-2005 at 7:19pm
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May-28-2005
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VT360,

I am still working out the kinks on the photos, with the white balance.  It seems tougher to set up the virtual pictures than doing the whole website.

The order form was set up using a software that I purchased from Godaddy.com.  The software is called Website Complete Edition Deluxe.  It is very simple to use.  I set up the basic pages using that software and then edit the background images and web buttons.

 


Message posted by myvirtualagents on June-02-2005 at 7:21pm
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myvirtualagents
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May-28-2005
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phoenixrising,

I am using a Fuji S7000 with a Nikon FC-E9 Fisheye lens with an IPIX rotator bracket.  I do have a very hard time getting my AE to lock for the same exposure on both sides.


Message posted by Thomas on June-03-2005 at 1:56am
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May-18-2002
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Forget about all the automatic at your camera. Shoot in M=manual, also manual white balance and focus. Correct the pics for vignetting and chromatic aberration with the (http://epaperpress.com/ptplugins/index.html)PTplugins from epaperpress.

Have you tried to zoom in with your fisheye until you have a "full frame fisheye"? Gives a huge improve in quality, but you have to do more pictures 360 degrees.

Message posted by phoenixrising on June-04-2005 at 7:44am
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January-16-2003
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vt: I don't do auto white bal. Many do this in error causing colour hue/light differences bewteen spheres. As Thomas says... you really need to set everything to manual. This is what I do when I take a pano.

CP4500 FC-E8 Agnos MrotatorA Manfrotto tripod and Bogan 338 leveler.

  • Set Cam to M for manual
  • Set to infinity ie mountain symbol
  • set f to a high a number as possible f=8.5 (u need good depth of view especially with the FC-E8 due to lens softness)
  • Set white bal to the lighting conditions ie sun, cloud...
  • I then zoom in so that I have a 140 x 180 image ie the sides are cropped and the top and bottom of the image just touches the edges of my view screen. (This results in around 85% chip usage, therefore lots more image = better/sharper image)
  • I then take 3-7 shots every 120 for 3 shot stich. 3-7 shots with differnt exposure times mind you so that you have enough images for PS blending.
  • Import my shots to PS and blend accordingly (hi lights, lo lights) and save as bmp.
  • stich in PW4 and save as bmp (I like to stich in 1500x3000 pixels for most webwork as I have a lot more image to work on and then I'll resize down later)
  • reimport to PW4 and convert to cubic to sort the ceiling/tripod/stiching issues out ( though often I just import a floor cap for own advertising) and save as bmp.
  • reconvert to equirectangular image.
  • Back in PS I'll do any colour correction needed before saving the draft pano.
  • The draft pano is my backup. I'll reszie as required for pano work eg 750x1500 and use noise ninja for sharpening and noise reduction. (I love noise ninja)
  • Finally I'll save for web as jpg

Most have similar workflows... (Thomas... I'll look into the vignetting/chromatic aberation issue and add it to my flow)

Hope this helps

Rob



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If I only had an hour to chop down a tree... I'd spend 45 mins sharpening the axe.

Message posted by myvirtualagents on June-05-2005 at 2:20am
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Rob,

Big question, lets say you take 5 virtual shots, after you have capture the photos, how long would it take you to edit and complete the 5 Virtual Scenes.

My problem is that the market I am in, Virtual Tours are very low in price.  The only way I can generate business is to offer nice virtual tour packages between $50 US and $100 US total.  Anything over $100 US Real Estate Agents will look the other way.  The way I am doing my pictures now, it takes me about 45mins at the house to capture the photos and about 1 hour to set up the tour.  If I spend to much time editiing pictures, etc, then my profits are very slim. 

I have thought about switching equipment to get better images.  I am using a Fuji S7000 and it does not seem to be too Fisheye lens friendly.  I use an IPIX rotator and the lens is a FC-9E.  I have thought about switching to a Nikon 8700, which I hear Nikon is much compatible with fisheye lens.

Thanks for your input and if you have any other advice, it will greatly be appricated.

By the way, when I set up to capture the photos, I set the camera on A apeture mode around 2.5.  I have the macros switched on.  I take the images in the 6 MP option and tried shooting using RAW image format at 12MP, but I do not see much differance in the final Virtual image.


Message posted by phoenixrising on June-05-2005 at 2:58pm
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January-16-2003
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Hi there,

I don't know your camera... however if you need to save time and therefore will only do a 2 shot hemi... (forget RAW... for u this makes little sence. Deffinatly set to fine and largest picture the cam will do)

  • Set Cam to M for manual (with my coolpix I'm then able to manually adjust aperture, thats the f number, and exposure times... this means I have total control)
  • Set to infinity ie mountain symbol
  • set f to a high a number as possible f=8.5 (u need good depth of view especially with the FC-E8 or in ur case fc-e9 due to lens softness)
  • Set white bal to the lighting conditions ie sun, cloud...
  • As ur taking 2 shot hemis, make sure the main light source (windows... the sun) is on the edge of the given hemisphere)
  • Take 3 shots every 180 (This'll give you backup and blending pics to work with) Some cams do bracketing... this means that by taking one shot you'll also take a shot + 2 shots a stop or two above or below average lighting automatically. Please refer to ur cams handbook to see if bracketing is an option. If not, take 1 shot thats more or less well exposed and 1 a little over- and one a little under exposed. Make sure the 2nd set of 3 shots are also taken at the same exposure times.

    Post shooting.

    • inport ur 3 shots (in total 6... 3 each 180) into photoshop. Copy and paste ur middle range shot onto ur slightly overexposed... under exposed shot and useing the erasure feature remove the bits that need to blend into the middle range shot. You can choose the amount of erasure giving a better blend. The point being that u blend in hi/lolights to the middle range shot for better detail or to bring in overexposed elements like lights or windows.
    • save as bmp and stich
    • reimport to ps, do any repair required, resize to outputsize, unsharp mask 30-70% and save for web.

    This process takes about 5 - 10 mins per pano once u have some practice under ur belt.

    The results are worth it every single time and are pretty much the minimum u should do for pano work and should give u decent results.

    (Please guys... let me know if I made any errors here... as I'm writing this on the fly with little time.)

    Hope this helps

    Rob



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    If I only had an hour to chop down a tree... I'd spend 45 mins sharpening the axe.

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