Hi johnfl68,

"AE lock" simply locks the camera's exposure settings (shutter speed and apiture) for "ONE" exposure setting. This means that each image will be taken at this "locked" exposure so that all images will have the same exposure hence creating an image set that can be stitched making each image blend into one final pano image with the same exposure throughout.

But this assumes that you have correctly set the exposure of the scene. If you make a mistake then ALL images will be either over exposed or under exposed. Secondly if you are near a bright light source like a window or lamp that frame will be overexposed even though you are using AE lock. It is important to place your camera as close to the CENTER of the space to be photographed as possible.

You MUST use full manual settings. IF you do not things like white balance and ISO may or may not change between frames even if you are using AE lock. This depends on how your camera works. For example using shutter priority the apiture will change with each shutter speed change creating an image with the same exposure no matter what you do.

I have a coolpix 5000 and the manual setting allows complete control of every setting the camera has. Nothing changes unless I set it that way myself.

Your camera supports "Auto bracketing". This means you can select a "bracketing program". For example you can do a 3 image bracket set at 1 stop or a 2 image bracket set at 2 stops.

You are using the FC-E8 lens ( I assume). This fisheye lens takes in an entire 180 field of view. This focuses all the resolved light onto only about 60% of the ccd of the camera. Using only 60% of the ccd means the camera can not capture enough dynamic range with 2 or 3 images. Even if you use a 3 image bracket set this will probably not be enough exposure to capture enough dynamic range to get the windows or darkest areas of the scene.

It has been my experience with this lens that you will need at least a 6 image bracket set for interior shots to get the full dynamic range. Others may argue about this but that is my opinion. Exterior shots can be done without bracketing unless you are in the shade under a large tree for example. In this case a 3 image set will do nicely.

Normally if you meter the scene this lens will set an apiture of F2.8 to get all the light possible in. The FC-E8 lens has a huge depth of field so this will not cause any focus problems. If you select a smaller apiture setting it means a equal change in shutter speed. If you select a small apiture then you will end up having to do long expores to capture the darkest parts of the scene and this leads to potential problems with grainy images.

I typically do the following:

Set the camera to full manual mode.
Set the apiture to F2.8
Set the shutter speed to around 1/60.
Take a test shot
Determine if the test shot is correctly exposed for the midtones ( not darkest part or lightest part of scene but the areas that are in the middle.)
Takes test shots using shutter speed to control exposure until you get a good exposure.
If your shutter is at say 1/30 for the best test shot then start your bracket set at 3 frames above this and step down 1 stop for each bracket shot for a total of 7 frames.
You will end up with 7 images at the following exposures:
1/250, 1/125, 1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8, 1/4

You now combine these in photomatrix and you will have a nice looking image.

Auto bracketing will only allow you to take a max of 3 frames. One at the set exposure and one above and one below ( either 1 stop, 2 stop or 1/3 stop depending on the bracketing program you chose) This is not normally enough to get the whole dynamic range so you have to do what I call manual bracketing.

Once you have determined the midtone exposure settings look at the table so you can easily select the correct shutter speed for each frame in the bracket set.

Below is an exposure table I made to help me with calculating the bracket sets.

NOTE: If using a DSLR with a full frame lens like the Nikkor 10.5 you can do 3 image bracket sets because of the lens capabilities. But when using the FC-E8 it just can't get the dynamic range needed with only 3 shots. If you intend to get the windows to expose properly you will have to do a 7 frame bracket set. If you don't care about the windows then you can get by with only a 3 frame bracket set.

Hope this helps. Where are you located in Florida? I am in Florida in the panhandle.

Gen.Lee

Dear Gen Lee,

I'm using also the CP4500 with FCE8. Please look at my pano www.360mediaweb.nl/pano/pano1.html the photo's you can donwload at www.360mediaweb.nl/pano/pano1/1.jpg 2.jpg and 3.jpg.

My pano is not so sharp. Please can you explain me what you are meant with:

If your shutter is at say 1/30 for the best test shot then start your bracket set at 3 frames above this and step down 1 stop for each bracket shot for a total of 7 frames.
You will end up with 7 images at the following exposures:
1/250, 1/125, 1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8, 1/4

You now combine these in photomatrix and you will have a nice looking image.

I do not understand de brackting!! and what do you meant with stop1 up to 7

Regards,

Eddy Vermeulen

the AE lock will also lock in your white balance.

Make sure you have determine the best white balance for the scene before locking it.

gen lee i set my f to about f7.0 --- however i won't  argue if your method is better! lol  you're pretty good at these stuff.

I use manual setting (manual mode) and make sure the exposure metering is right in the middle

see pic