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Subject Topic: Blurry pano image Post Reply Post New Topic
Message posted by eagle on September-21-2005 at 10:09am
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eagle
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April-14-2004
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Hi,

Do you guys have any tips on how to improve the sharpness of the image?

I have a coolpix 4300 with fc-e8 fisheye connected to the agnos mrotatorA.

Here are my settings:

* Manual mode
* f/2.7
* 1/60s
* iso 100
* focus set to Infinity
* flash off
* autobracket; 5 + - .3, sometimes 5 +- .7
* Image quality: fine
* Image size: 2048

I take 3 shots and stitch them. The stitched image look good but not as sharp as I'd like them to be. They don't look like the fantastic images pros here have. I use the photoshop unsharp mask or even the panoweaver sharpen but they don't help much.

I have no aspirations to attain the level of quality the pros here can generate drawing from their years of expertise and experience, but I was just wondering if there are things I can do to ensure that I get reasonably sharp pictures without resorting to lots of manipulation in post processing.

I'd rather get sharp pictures to start out with vs. blurry and then try to sharpen them.

Would appreciate your help.

Thanks,
eagle

Message posted by marktold on September-21-2005 at 1:26pm
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marktold
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May-09-2003
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I would say some limitation comes from your hardware.

Nikon D70 with Sigma 8mm or even Nikor 10.5 will get better images.

Show us an example of an image and maybe we can help or at least see on what level you are.

Regards Markus



-------------
Nikon D70s, Sigma 8 mm, 4 to 12 shots, Agnos MrotatorTShort, PTGui, PS CS3, and lots of other software :-)

Message posted by smooth on September-21-2005 at 1:52pm
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smooth
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November-23-2002
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Eagle,

Send me a copy of one of your panorama's and I will see if I can improve it. If I can make it sharper I will then tell you the procedure I used.

Regards, Smooth


Message posted by 360texas on September-21-2005 at 4:20pm
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360texas
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June-12-2002
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Hi Eagle,

Your camera settings for aperature and shutter speed are the culprit

* Manual mode
* f/2.7
* 1/60s
* iso 100
* focus set to Infinity

Try setting your camera f/stop to F/8 and let the camera speed self adjust.  F/7 or 8 might be the 'Sweet Spot' where everything within 5 cm of the lens and infinity is in focus.

The FC-E8 is typically a 'soft lens' meaning some things are slightly fuzzy.  It is the nature of the lens.

THEN use PS UNsharpen to clear off the fuz from the image.

ISO 100 is a good setting because the image will less image noise or film grain.

Dave



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Message posted by RuddersUK on September-21-2005 at 7:37pm
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July-16-2004
372 Posts
Hi mate this pic of my garden was done with the coolpix 4500 in fe2 lens mode using 4 shots plus zenith & nadir click here we used to just do 3 shots with the coolpix but as you can see a few more shots give you so much more information. excuse the dodgy stitching it was just a test shot.

Message posted by marktold on September-22-2005 at 3:22am
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marktold
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@RuudersUK

If I had a garden like this I would not shoot with a coolpix 4500 :-)

Nice place you got ther. And even the weather does not seem to be to british.

Markus



-------------
Nikon D70s, Sigma 8 mm, 4 to 12 shots, Agnos MrotatorTShort, PTGui, PS CS3, and lots of other software :-)

Message posted by RuddersUK on September-22-2005 at 4:40am
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Its the communal garden, jus in case you guys think im a millionaire or summat! and this shot was only taken a few days ago to see if we could get a decent quality pano from a small amount of frames with the 4500! the sun in sept in britain! its a conspiracy! we also have a d70 and lookin at the canon 350D next, Is it any good Dave? well your panos prove it is so why am I asking lol!

Message posted by eagle on September-22-2005 at 8:17am
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eagle
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Thanks guys.

Smooth, I'll try to post pix of the 3 shots as well as the stitched pano.

Dave, you're probably right about the aperture. The cp4300 has two settings: f2.7 & f7.2.    I'll try the smaller aperture. I set it to the larger aperture coz I remember a post here recommending the largest aperture. But your suggestion makes sense since larger aperture means smaller depth of field and smaller aperture means wider depth of field. With the wider depth of field, the focus should be across the whole image vs. around the center.

RuddersUK, that's an awesome pix. Using the cp4500 proves you can take great pix with an older 4M camera. ..... Since you took more than 3 pictures, how were you able to stitch the images? Did you use a different program coz Panoweaver only allows you to stitch 3 images at a time.

Thanks,
eagle

Message posted by RuddersUK on September-22-2005 at 8:33am
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panoweaver 4 allows you to stitch 4 images plus zenith & nadir

Message posted by 360texas on September-22-2005 at 8:57am
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Ok.. its time for a refresher on aperature -

Ever wonder about words like aperature, F/stop and why larger F/stop means a higher value.. when actually its just a tiny hole... ?

The F/stop is a dimension or partial distance across the lens diameter.

Lets say you have a lens that has a measured physical diameter distance across the lens of 60mm.

F stop value of:

f/2 would have an aperature opening size of 60mm/2 = 30mm wide

f/7 would have aperature opening size of 60mm/7 = 8.57mm wide

f/11 would have aperature opening size of 60mm/11 = 5.45mm wide

Smaller the f/value like f/2 means that the hole is wider

Larger the f/value like f/11 means the hole is narrower

What does this do for us: 

The larger hole opening means more light can pass through the lens and the faster shutter can be used .

The smaller hole opening means less light can pass through the lens and the slower shutter speed can be used.

Then there is a wild term called Circle of Confusion (COF) which helps explain "focusing or light registration on the film plane or CCD sensor".  Its definition is outside the scope of this forum.  My dictionary and photography manual do not even discuss it. (must be old books).  AND NO it is not a definition for one of Dave's panoramas.

And lastly Depth of Field (DOF), which is a combination of f/stop and shutter speed where combinations of foreground,  middle ground and back ground remain in focus.  Typically a wider hole like f/2 has a smaller mid image region of focus.  Conversly, a smaller hole like f11 has a larger fore, mid and back image region of focus.

Luminous Landscape has a great article about DOF and COF at

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/dof.shtml

But then you already knew this.

Dave

 



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Dave
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