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Subject Topic: Post Pano Corrections Post Reply Post New Topic
Message posted by Kevin on July-13-2006 at 10:50am
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Kevin
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May-24-2006
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I know this must have been asked in the past. I am looking for work flow suggestions in Photoshop or Gimp to clean up final panos. Specifically I wish to learn how to correct the shading (exposure?) difference between the different shots. For example check out:

http://www.uvm.edu/~khytten/nodal_pt/shading/Room_2.jpg

Notice the line between the different shots. I do shot with constant settings in manual at an aperture of about 9. Right now I have been shooting in high jpeg (Canon 350D + Sigma 8 mm EX). I have not experimented with raw yet.

Suggestions? Or links to old discussion posts covering this topic?


-------------
--Kevin

http://www.webvisiontours.com/

Message posted by smooth on July-13-2006 at 11:30am
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smooth
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November-23-2002
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The absolute best advise I can give you is shoot RAW and learn how to use it.

I personally use Photoshop CS2 RAW converter. I'm happy to guide you should you go this route.

Regards, Smooth


Message posted by 360texas on July-13-2006 at 11:47am
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360texas
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Smooth is correct.  Start using Raw.

Here is a brief outline.  We can expand on it as we go.

Using CS2 Raw converter (free download)

Load all 4 images
Set to 8bit and RGB (1998) for stitching in Panoweaver 4.  16bit for all other stitchers
Set all 4 images to same white balance value [color temperature]
Sigma 8 adjust chromatic aberration to -40 (fixes red channel)
Sigma 8 adjust vignetting slider to 100%
Sigma 8 adjust mid center vignetting slider 12
Adjust exposure to balance all images (or fix later in PS)

Save all as BMP or  8bit TIF for PW4.  16bit Tif for other stitchers

Stitch with PW4 or other favorite stitcher.  In PW4 add in tripod cap if required, depending on if you use T&B images won't need tripod cap. 

Review and post process pano in PS or favorite photo editor

Alternate:  Use pano2qtvr and use autorotate5sec or clickable URL link hotspot, audio, company logo.swf sprites and generate a QTVR .mov

Ok your turn


 

 



-------------
/s/
Dave
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Message posted by smooth on July-13-2006 at 1:09pm
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smooth
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My turn is by way of a simple demonstration showing both before and after so it is clear what can be achieved without a lot of words.

Visit www.smooth360.info/shooting_raw

Happy to expand on things as needed.

Regards, Smooth


Message posted by Kevin on July-13-2006 at 1:13pm
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Kevin
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May-24-2006
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Ok,

Took images as raw (that was not that bad). Opened with Adobe CS2 Raw and adjusted as Dave instructed. Saved as tiff's (BIG FILES ). Stiched with Panoweaver.

Here is the result:



Link to 2000 px image:
http://www.uvm.edu/~khytten/nodal_pt/shading/office_test.jpg

I know I could have done a better job of setting up the shot - I think I heard Dave say the you should shoot with your back to the light first?

Anyway, suggestions on post production and composing this shot to make it better? I do a lot of inside work here at the University so this is a good test.

I know this is a different topic, but I do have a trial version of Photomatix and I have played with it a little for window burnout. Right now I just want to get seams right.

-------------
--Kevin

http://www.webvisiontours.com/

Message posted by Kevin on July-13-2006 at 1:17pm
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Kevin
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May-24-2006
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Smooth,

Your raw demonstration was VERY helpful. I just followed Dave's instructions but now I see what some of the changes I made did to the image.


-------------
--Kevin

http://www.webvisiontours.com/

Message posted by smooth on July-13-2006 at 1:27pm
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smooth
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November-23-2002
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Kevin,

To me it would appear that one of the images is a lot different in colour balance to the other two. Using RAW you should be able to adjust this to a pretty close match. It could very well be as simple as adjusting the White Balance temperature a little (a little brighter). Lighting conditions and positioning comes into play of course.

While Dave's suggested settings are a starting point not any one setting applies to all situations. My settings are quite different to those Dave suggested. The one that will never change though is Vignetting it will always be 100%

Don't be afraid to play with the settings, you are not changing the original RAW fill permanently. You can and should revert to the original "As Shot" version before attempting another shot at converting.

Regards, Smooth


Message posted by Kevin on July-13-2006 at 1:52pm
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Kevin
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May-24-2006
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Ok,

Here are some samples - I see it involves a lot of trial and error (unless I am missing something). Also, I do not have CS2 at home, I use GIMP. Is there a suggestion for another free Raw Converter (is there one with the Canon bunch of software). Of is there a plug in for GIMP?   I found UFRaw:
http://ufraw.sourceforge.net/

Thoughts?

Here are my samples:

Before altering Brightness for two images


After


-------------
--Kevin

http://www.webvisiontours.com/

Message posted by smooth on July-13-2006 at 2:14pm
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smooth
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November-23-2002
5401 Posts

Kevin,

You are right in this case your images took some guess work. But had they been shot to the lighting conditions better in the first place and once you have built up some experience form using these settings you will come to know how to rectify things pretty easily. (It becomes second nature) and this is the experience that we get paid for.

You have got to admit it really didn't take you all that long. From unusable to usable with a single forum thread, some software and an hour of your life!

Sorry I have no input on the options outside of Photoshop. I'm sure they exist! But I have Photoshop as it is the industry standard and gave up learning other software outside of this scope. Somebody else may step in on this. Maybe you will become our forum "go-to" for these type of things?

Regards, Smooth


Message posted by 360texas on July-13-2006 at 2:17pm
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360texas
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Well this last AFTER set.. is better although I think you can probably achieve this while taking the images rather than fixing it during post processing.

What is throwing your camera light meter off is that hot window over by the round table.  TRY CLOSING THE WINDOW BLINDS. Your camera is sensing the bright window and the interior room is probably under exposed.  The BEFORE set of images shows this under exposure.  Pick your time of day for these types of 'Window' burn out.  Early morning or late afternoon is a better time for balanced indoor / outdoor window shots.  OR

For the image set containing the bright window.. try to take two images.  One to expose for the hightlights window [so you can see objects outside] and the room is well underexposed. The other to expose for the room interior lighting with the window highlight very overexposed.

Open the underexposed window image and bring the overexposed image in on a layer.  [not sure how gimp works] and blend the two images together getting the best 'through' the window mixed with the best indoor exposed room.

All this sound like a lot of extra work.  AND It is.  Best solution is to take the images properly the first time.  Heck.. even try shooting AUTO [arrg bad word read frustration factor increased 20%]



-------------
/s/
Dave
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EasyPano - Panoweaver
Pano2VR


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