My wife just was given a Nikon D70s by her boss and this could be the clincher for us to finally move to DSLR panos.

We've got 2 kits which I would sell on ebay or something.

Coolpix 8400 with FC-E9 + agnos mrotator head

Coolpix 8700 with FC-E9 + Kingpano rotator

We stitch with panoweaver 5.0 and build tours with Tourweaver 3.0

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I've read through tons of threads and I'm pretty much settled on getting a Sigma 8mm F/3.5 EX DG lens.

Now for the questions (I have a thousand of them but do not want to abuse of you kind people):

Is the D70s a good body for making panos or should I sell it also and get something else ?

Should I go with an Agnos head and which one is the best for the D70 body ?

Please confirm that this setup would allow 4 image panos as this already is a big step up from the 3 image panos we are currently doing.

Any tips on basic settings for the D70s would be appreciated.  (I've seen a thread on this but can't seem to be able to locate anymore)

Thanks

PS.  Smooth, I might have to request some paid services from you once I make the move and that the recommended equipment is in.   I'd like for us to create an efficient process flow that would end up in mid to high end quality panos.

You might like to trade the Coolpix 8400 with FC-E9 + agnos mrotator head for lessons? I'm collecting a few older sets ups for students I teach locally.

Anyway, back to your questions.

The Nikon D70s is a fine camera and the Sigma 8mm Fisheye fitted to it will allow you to shoot 4 images at 90 degrees with super results. One trick will be to tilt the camera/lens up 4 to 5 degrees up from the horizon to close the Zenith when stitching. You will then only need patch the Nadir tripod area as you would with the Nikon Coolpix range.

OK, here are "starter" settings. Set the camera to (M) Manual mode and set the aperture to f/8.0 and then adjust the shutter speed to meet the requirements of the internal light meter (centerline position 0EV) -EV|--|--| +EV  it is most important that the ISO be set too 100 and the White Balance be on the correct setting for the scene I.E: Daylight, Cloudy, Tungsten, Fluorescent etc.

Panohead? Agnos MrotatorTCPS or MrotatorUM both will be perfect for this set up (the latter if you not going to use a battery grip) I have my Nikon D40X set up on a MrotatorUT and it very good. (The UT has the superior rotator base)

Understand that the learning curve is higher with the DSLR but not by miles. In fact I just started playing around with a Nikon Coolpix 5000 again and had too try and remember how to use it! LOL even looked up some of my own old posts!!

Anyway, get your gear and be amazed at the improvement. If you want my services you know where I hang out!

Regards, Smooth

Unless the MRotator U using the  "M" style Rotator" ... the click stops are at every 60 degrees which means either 6 @60 = 360 or 3 at 120 degrees = 360.   With a Canon 350d or 20d and a Sigma 8,  I do not think that you get sufficient overlap between the 3 images at 120 degrees.

With the MRotator U "T Rotator"  you get alot of click stop variations including 4 at 90 degrees.   The Mrotator UT is the bracket and rotator combination we are using with the Canon 350d, 20d and 5d.

Thank you for your prompt reply.

My wife packed my suitcases and put them by the door when I suggested we sell the Coolpix 8400 kit to generate money to purchase the Sigma Lens.  (She might suffer from Objectophilia)

I'll only be selling the 8700 kit and I have been able to fit the D70s on the Kingpano and found the npp in 5-10 minutes using settings on their website. (using standard 18-70mm lens)

I have the opportunity to buy a Tokina 12-24mm F4 aspherical lens for $ 250 cad.  This lens could be used to do Statics shots of home interiors.

Could it be of some use for panos ?  How many shots would I have to do and is it worth it ?

You still need a fisheye lens to take 4 drum type images around the horizon.

Keep in mind that the Nikon D70 has a 1.5 crop factor.

The standard 18-70mm can not be used with Panoweaver 5 to stitch panoramas.

The 18-70 is 1.5 crop factor essentially a 27mm to 105mm normal lens.

The Tokina 12-24mm can not be used with Panoweaver 5 to stitch panoramas.

The 12-24 is 1.5 crop factor essentially a 18mm to 36mm sort of wide angle lens.

[edited] However, with a Tokina 10-17  Fisheye is 16mm x 25.5mm  using only a 10 [16]mm setting.. taking 6 images around + 1 UP and 1 Down (total 8 image) can be used with Panoweaver 5.

[edited] The Sigma 8mm costs about the $$ame as the Tokina 10-17 and only needs 4 images around with no up/ down total (4 images) also can be used with Panoweaver 5.

Hope that clarifies the lens topic.

Thank you for explaining this

I just ordered the Sigma 8mm F/3.5 EX DG.  Will be getting it next week

Quote: Originally posted by 360texas on January-29-2008

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However, with a Tokina 10-22 Fisheye is 16mm x 33mm  using only a 10 [16]mm setting.. taking 6 images around + 1 UP and 1 Down (total 8 image) can be used with Panoweaver 5.

The Sigma 8mm costs about the same as the Tokina 10-22 and only needs 4 images around with no up/ down total (4 images) also can be used with Panoweaver 5.

Hope that clarifies the lens topic.

 

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Actually the Tokina is a 10-17mm Fisheye.

Regards, Smooth

Thanks, you are correct.  I do not have this lens.. so I was guessing.

Last year, I did test the Tokina 10-17 for a friend of mine in the UK.  It works something like the full frame Nikkor 10.5.  8 around the horizon and for sure 1 zenith and 1 nadir.  The UP/Down's are necessary because you get a very large black hole in the top and bottom if you only take 6 on the horizon.

By the way.  Rodgrio reports that the Tokina gets extremely sharp imaging at f/11 and infinity.  The work on his page is done with a Canon 350d and Tokina 10-17mm at f/11 at infinity and a NN5.  All RAW images.

After you visit this page select  "Florence" to see what it will do at FULL SCREEN.  You should see them on a 24" Samsung LCD monitor. 

http://www.360panoview.co.uk/

WOW!
One quick 'newbie' question - how easy is it to take those top n bottom shots? I keep imagining I'd bump the tripod and have to start all over again.

I still am amazed at these images - I have to use HDR on my wee 5000 to get skies like that and buildings like those...

waa