Greetings all - new at this stuff, so my topic may be "old news" ... but I can't find much out there on. I've been shooting in the 6+T+B method. I consistently get a "lighter" circle in my T&B image when stitching with the EP stitcher only - so I've been attempting to use Smartblend to correct this. It does a good job ... but ... I'm getting a thin white line in between my T and B image on the cubic image with Smartblen. I've varied the settings to no avail.

Any ideas?

Hey Mike,

I had a line between the 6th and 1st when shooting 6, the -w fixed it for me.

"-w  same as "-WrapMode 1" to be compartible with programs using Enblend"

Hope the helps, Don

Hi Mike.

I have a few questions for you.  What camera and lens combination are you using?  Are you shooting in RAW?  Most of the time the problem can be resolved before it even gets to Panoweaver.  I use a Canon EOS 5D and the EF 15mm Fisheye lens.  Even after applying the same white balance and brightness in my RAW editor, I sometimes find my top image a little brighter.  I correct this by notching it down 1 stop in brightness in my RAW editor.  Then when I bring it into Panoweaver, Smartblend takes care of the rest.  This solution has worked for me and the quarks in my particular camera & lens combo.

Thanks to all and appologies for not replying sooner.

I've tried the "-w" switch, didn't help.

I'm shooting with a Kodak Pro14nX and a Nikon 16mm full frame fisheye on a Manfrotto 303SPH head. Shooting 60 degrees apart. Manual exposures and bracketing (choosing same exposure for image groups) and focusing manually. Rig was also painstakingly calibrated for nodal points. Saving raw but it doesn't seem to matter if I import raw or rip to other formats ... doesn't make a difference so far.

If I blend with Smartblend "off", PW gives me fantastically accurate stitches but .. I get a significantly light, circular "hotspot" in my zenith and nadir image. If I stitch with Smartblend enabled, it blends in the hotspots VERY well ... except for the thin white line I get in between the Z and N cubic image.

Right now, my current "fix" is to rip the cubic twice, utilizing PW only then with SB enabled, and then copying the 'fixed' blend with the PW stitch in Photoshop to correct.

Makes for additional steps and work to get to a final image (;-( 

Jerry,

Thanks - I'll give it a try ...

Jerry - THANKS!!!

That superrune plug-in is extremely helpful.

You have also taught me a good lesson on my workflow. I was rendering from initial stitch to cubic in order to retouch out my tripod. The Smartblend plug-in works much better if I render to spherical, convert to cubic, retouch, ... and then finish it off.

I'll continue to "play" with it.

Thanks again!