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Subject Topic: NPP point & divergent brightness of shots Post Reply Post New Topic
Message posted by EBMN on August-25-2009 at 5:48pm
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Well, during our last International adventure, with no time to practice anything, I finally figured out how to shoot the Nikon D300 in manual mode. With the settings of F11 for the Nikkor 10.5mm lens, I adjusted the shutter to keep the exposure centered where the meter said. I did notice that the ISO was still set to auto as well as the white balance. I don't know if that is a mistake or not.

Between shooting towards areas under a roof, then towards bright sunlight and straight up with the bright sun, the shots have quite a different level of exposure to them I am not sure how that will stitch together when I get to that point.

Additionally, for the NPP point, I set the camera up on a tripod and looked at the edge of a vertical post 2 feet away, and compared that to a vertical surface 20 feet away, and kept adjusting it till I could see no change. BUT, do you know how hard it is to see through the lens clearly using a fisheye in the first place when you do not have 20 year old eyes??! And were still talking with adjusting the eyepiece diopter to +2 on the D300.

I did notice that one is finding the NPP in one plane, but one still must slide the sideways mounted camera to try to get the lens centered over the rotational point of the pano head.

Message posted by smooth on August-26-2009 at 2:17am
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Nothing in shooting shots for panoramas can be left in manual mode. Leaving the White Balance or ISO in Auto is not correct and will make for colour changes between shots.

Shooting in areas where you have bright light and then dark shadow can be very tricky and this is where HDR multiple exposures fused together comes into play.

You only other option is to split meter and take the average via the light meter.

Adjusting the NPP is explained in this post.

Regards, Smooth

Message posted by EBMN on August-26-2009 at 6:07pm
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Ok, so what ISO do you prefer to manually set it to, or does it not make much of a difference, as long as they are all the same?


Message posted by smooth on August-27-2009 at 1:23am
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The lower the ISO the less noise/grain is entered into the image. If you can get away with 100 then this is advisable.

The default for the D300 like most Nikon's is 200 and because of the quality of the camera anything up to about 800 should be fine.

Remember White Balance is just as important.

Regards, Smooth

Message posted by EBMN on August-27-2009 at 2:57pm
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Ok, I figured out how to manually set the camera's ISO to 200, and the white balance to something suitable in manual mode.

Now I need to go find an expensive joint somewhere to shoot some example photos and stitch them together...

Message posted by Vince on August-27-2009 at 3:58pm
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Just to make sure, you do understand that every shot needs to be at the same exposure. What that exposure is will very, inside or outside, sunny or cloudy and so on. But when you set up to do a pano, pick an exposure and do not change it, ignore the meter for the rest of the shots in that scene.
Vince

Message posted by EBMN on August-29-2009 at 3:57am
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Well, under that scenario, wouldn't shooting straight up for the nadir into the sun totally blow out the image?


Message posted by smooth on August-29-2009 at 5:00am
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All images MUST retain the exact same settings in the panoramic set. Same shutter speed, aperture, white balance, ISO. You must envisage that the panoramic scene being shot is "one" photograph. Correct exposure is very important. When the situation arises that areas are blown out you can underexpose the scene by say -1ev and do selective brightening in Photoshop of the RAW files. Or bracket the shots so you can do IDR/HDR fusing.

Vince is very correct in his reply to you.

Regards, Smooth

Message posted by Vince on August-29-2009 at 12:32pm
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Quote: Originally posted by EBMN on August-29-2009
Well, under that scenario, wouldn't shooting straight up for the nadir into the sun totally blow out the image?




Try and think of it this way. If you had a fisheye that had a 180+ field of view and you pointed it straight up you would, theoretically, get the "whole world" in one shot. Now, think about getting a large print, like 2 feet square made from that shot, and making a jigsaw puzzle made, and instead of oddly shaped pieces, each puzzle piece is going be 8x12 inches. You would end up with 6 "slices" of the large picture, and because they all came from the same original photo, they would all fit together just right. Some pieces would be lighter than others, some darker, and some very bright in one spot and very dark in another. But that wouldn't matter, because all the edges match up.

That help?
Vince

Message posted by EBMN on August-30-2009 at 2:27am
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I am mulling that over ;)

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