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Subject Topic: Color blending tutorial needed Post Reply Post New Topic
Message posted by sven on March-17-2004 at 3:02pm
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sven
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Germany
March-10-2004
35 Posts

Hi!

I've got a pano where the contrast between hemispheres is very hard and I don't know how to do a nice color blending.
http://www.su-n.de/images/sphere.bmp

Some helpful hints are very appreciated.

Greetings,

Sven


Message posted by 360texas on March-17-2004 at 5:05pm
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360texas
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June-12-2002
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Hmmm... that looks like you did not have your camera Automatic Exposure lock turned on.

Turn you AE Lock on.. and the camera will record the exposure aperature f-stop and shutter speed on the first shot.  The those settings will be reused on the second shot. 

Be sure to turn off the AE lock when moving to your next panorama location.  The lighting will be different.  So you will need to enable the AE lock again.

Hope that helps

Dave



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Message posted by sven on March-17-2004 at 5:44pm
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sven
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Germany
March-10-2004
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Hi!

I read about the ae-lock, but i'm not sure if I use it correctly - well it looks like i'm using it not correctly :)

I use a CP 5700 with these user settings:

whitebalance - i set for each location
metering - matrix
continuous - single
best shot selector - off
image adjustment - normal
saturation control - normal
lens - normal
exposure options - AE lock On
focus - area mode - auto
image sharpening - off
noise reduction - off

Settings in the "S" menu: AE-L

I take pics in the M (manual program mode) and set shutter speed/lens apeture manually.
Then I hit the LOCK button one time, take a pic, rotate the cam and take another.

Screen looks like this:

Greetings,

Sven


Message posted by VT360 on March-17-2004 at 10:05pm
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VT360
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January-04-2003
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Sven,

Sometimes you take the 1st pic with the sun showing and no clouds covering.

Then when you go to take the 2nd pic the sun might have been covered by a cloud and thus affect the lighting.

This is common on outdoor shots. Best thing to do is to make sure that you either take the 2 pics when there's no clouds close to the sun OR when the sun is covered by the clouds in both shots.

From looking at your pano, it doesnt seem like there were any clouds. so i dont know what happened.

Also, what you can do is to split the sun in 2. your first shot contains 1/2 of the sun and your second shot the other 1/2 of the sun. that way both halves have equal lighting. let me know what worked out for ya.

 

 


Message posted by sven on March-18-2004 at 4:45am
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sven
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Germany
March-10-2004
35 Posts

Thanks, I'll give that a try!

But one thing to the AE Lock. I've set to AE Lock in the menu, but do I have to push the lock button before I take the 1st pic or not? (The manual is not very helpful imo).

Cheers,

Sven


Message posted by 360texas on March-18-2004 at 9:48am
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hmm I really don't know.. don't have your camera.. and don't currently know anyone that does.  On our 990's once you set the AE lock those 2

WB White balance Lock
AE  Automatice Exposure - Lock

are shown on the LCD like yours shows.  I think they will over ride any manual settings for white balance.

I agree - put the primary light source (sun or window) to your back then turn 90 ° to the left side.. and take your first shot.  That should do as VT360 says.. 50% sunny/ 50% shaded and should give you a balanced inital AE Lock settings.

I also noticed the small 'flower' setting indicating you are/were in MACRO mode.  Typically shooting outdoor panorama settings will show a 2 peak mountain symbol or focus is set for infinity.  Also you are showing that you are in MANUAL "M" mode.  I always use "P" or program mode where the camera will determine the F-stop and shutter speed automatically.

Thanks for taking that pix of the LCD screen.. it was useful in helping to determine your current camera settings.

Dave



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Message posted by sven on March-21-2004 at 1:53pm
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sven
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March-10-2004
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Hey Dave and VT360!

Well, in the manual from the FC-E9 is written that I should set camera to macro mode when using fisheye. That's why the flower is on the screen.
I read on another page that for panos you should set lens aperture to 7 and adjust shutter speed to meet correct exposure.
Well, I started another topic where I do worry about the bad sharpness I get.
Do you recommend setting camera to landscape mode? (The hill with the 2 peeks)?
Do you think setting lens aperture to 7 for every shot is fine?

Greetings,

Sven =)


Message posted by VT360 on March-21-2004 at 9:31pm
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January-04-2003
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Sven,

color blending is always a pain. i tested the ipix new software and it's excellent for color blending.

the stitching capabilities is as good as panoweaver.

the blending capabilities is much superior to panoweaver. try it with some images where the color differences is very noticeable. you'll see how the ipix software blends them.

i'm not a fan or user of ipix for know reasons. but i do admit i'm impressed with their software.

i wished panoweaver would step up and please the users with the much requested features we have posted in the wish lists.

increased color blending should be one of them.

 


Message posted by 360texas on March-22-2004 at 9:22am
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Well the macro mode flower, might be used for other close up focus applications like taking pictures inside flowers, book pages or of postage stamps etc.  Focus on any object between 3 to 30 cm (1 - 12 inches).

With neither macro or infinity selected.. you will have auto focus range 

The 2 peaks means fixed 'infinity focus' or maximum distance focus at the horizon say beyond 30cm  (1 foot).

For Panoramas, I would set it to Fisheye 1 or 2 lens setting.  Then use the Automatic "P" programming for shutter speed and apurature (light exposure) and let the camera do its job finding the best combination.

Dave

 



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Message posted by phoenixrising on March-22-2004 at 7:43pm
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On my Cp990/4500 I set WB lock, infinity/twinpeaks, M=manuel set f to 8 and timing to match. Don't like AElock as I find it fiddly and am also unable to take 3-5 shots in a given direction (for blending/highlight/contrast/blownout windows) accuratly. AE Lock means I have to take a series at one setting at a go... and my home made head doesn't have actual fixed stops... which means I have allignment problems when taking a 2nd or third image sequence at  a new AE lock setting for blending work. I am more then happy with my approach and get good results... also it's so much easier just twiddling the wheel to adjust exposure timing for my shot series.

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If I only had an hour to chop down a tree... I'd spend 45 mins sharpening the axe.

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