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Subject Topic: How to shoot images for panorama Post Reply Post New Topic
Message posted by Urgenus on January-08-2011 at 4:57pm
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January-08-2011
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i want to make sphere type 360 panoramas to my website. And i'm just a beginner, i even haven't purhaced any program yet. Camera and lens i bought allready :)

- How should i take images to panorama ?

-- I have Nikon D300 with Samyang 8mm 1:3,5 Fish-eye cs
-- How many images i should take and how?

- What easypano software should i use and buy ?

I would be very happy if somebody could help me with this :)

Message posted by Urgenus on January-08-2011 at 5:19pm
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http://www.easypano.com/Gallery/panoweaver700/street/_flash/panorama.html

This flash is great example what i want to make.

Message posted by smooth on January-08-2011 at 11:46pm
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You will need to purchase a Panorama head. This is a must to avoid parallax errors especially when objects are closer to the lens. A panorama head will allow the camera to rotate around the entrance pupil (EP) of the lens (this is the point of no parallax) and this will make the (EP) rotate around X and Y axis of the tripod centerline.

You can read more on setting up your camera/lens combination for the correct No Parallax Point in this thread.

The Samyang is a great entry price fisheye lens and really a good quality manual lens capable of very good shots. The correct shooting technique is (minimum) 4 shots in rotation @ 90 degrees (Yaw) click stops with -10 degrees tilt down. Followed by 1 Zenith/Up shot at +65 degrees. You might also like to shoot an offset Nadir/Down shot of where the tripod was positioned.

Though I have mentioned the "minimum" you will most likely find 6 rotational shots -10 degrees @ 60 degrees (Yaw) Click Stops and 2 +65 degrees 180 degrees apposed a better more reliable shooting sequence for ease of control point placement. Of course the Nadir/Down shot is again optional.

So your buy list is:

  • Quality stable tripod
  • Panohead
  • Wireless Remote

I mention Wireless Remote because you need a way to shoot away from the camera to reduce shadows and movement etc (you can also use the camera Self Timer shooting option) but the wireless remote is a better option. If you need help on brands etc please ask.

Panoweaver software does the stitching from Easypano and Tourweaver compiles "tours" linking multiple rooms/scenes.

More on the Samyang 8mm Fisheye in this thread I started on another forum this time last year.

Regards, Smooth [8D]


Message posted by DominiqueGEORGE on January-09-2011 at 3:06am
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Hi Smooth,

your explanations are, as usual "dispointignly"[;)]  clear, precise and perfect [:^:]

Can you explain how to shoot the nadir wiyhout having paralax problems (or with a minimum of them) ?

Many thanks in advance.

Dominique



-------------
Nikon D300s - Nikor 10.5 - (PW7 Pro + TW6 Pro) - W7 Ultim - DELL Prceision M6400 (Quad Core - 8GB - 2x160GB-SSD)

Message posted by smooth on January-09-2011 at 3:42am
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Hi Dominique,

Give this a try:

  • Place a coin or similar on the ground in line with your tripod centerline
  • After shooting your rotational shots and zenith move the tripod away some distance (taking notice of shadows) then tilt the tripod to take a picture of the nadir area with the coin in shot. This angle should be about 20 degrees tilt and the camera height as close as possible to the rotational shots.

You have the option of removing the coin before shooting (another person helps) or simply clone out the small object in post processing.

The important things here are the 20 degree (or close) angle and maintaining as close as possible to the rotational shooting height.

Panoweaver 7 does an amazing job in most cases. 

The only other thing is that your NPP should be pretty spot on to start with otherwise things will not turn out as you would like.

N.B: It never deals with geometric patterns all that well. Best to stick to pain non patterned areas.

I will happily look at an image set and test if shot as I have stated for your type of camera and lens combination.

Regards, Smooth [8D]


Message posted by realtor jerry on January-09-2011 at 8:41pm
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This is an excellent and inexpensive wireless remote for the D300:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=WishList.jsp&A=details&Q=&sku=690444&is=REG

-------------
Nikon D300, D3s, Nikon 10.5 lens, RingT105N+Footplate+MrotatorTCPs, Giottos MT9261 Tripod, Manfrotto 410 Jr geared head.

If you know the "secret" then everyday is a good day!

Message posted by smooth on January-09-2011 at 11:48pm
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smooth
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Yes, that is a good wireless remote.

It appears to be a re-badged Phottix Cleon II see www.phottix.com

Regards, Smooth [8D]


Message posted by Urgenus on January-12-2011 at 10:52am
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January-08-2011
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i downloaded test version of the panoweaver 7 patch.

I shot 7 images normal and one sky image with my samyang 8mm lens.

I then uploaded the 7 images and select "fullframe fisheye" then i selected the sky image to "Ceiling" . And then let the program stich images.

The panorama seems almost ok, but there are some straight lines (houses etc) and some on those straight lines did not compute right.

Should i correct the distortion of the source images before stiching or what should i do to get the straight lines work also

Message posted by smooth on January-12-2011 at 11:14am
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If you can upload the source images I will attempt to stitch them to see if you are on target.

You do NOT correct distortion first. This is the job of the stitching program (Panoweaver).

You also should NOT be adding the up/zenith image via the "ceiling" cap option. This is not what that feature is designed for.

All images to be stitched should be entered as fullframe fisheye including the sky/up/zenith shot.

Regards, Smooth [8D]


Message posted by Urgenus on January-12-2011 at 11:53am
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January-08-2011
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Thanks for advice.

I try to take some other shots and stich them up, and if i still got problems i think sending source to here (or where).

i think i also try that free program hugin, but could free program be as good as payed program (panoweaver).


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