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Subject Topic: How can i increase my resilotion Post Reply Post New Topic
Message posted by kmsr on October-12-2010 at 9:28am
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kmsr
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Saudi Arabia
March-18-2010
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How can i increase my panorama photos resilotion.

I have camera Nikon D80.

and i need software to open photo with extension RAW.

Thanks.



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Message posted by smooth on October-12-2010 at 9:37am
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November-23-2002
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You should process your RAW images with Adobe Camera Raw, DxO, Lightroom, CaptureNX etc. Of course you cannot increase the resolution by size only in clarity.

Regards, Smooth [8D] 


Message posted by kmsr on October-12-2010 at 10:01am
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Thanks Smooth,

And I always like your topic and replay. But did you see this:

http://www.paris-26-gigapixels.com/index-en.html

How they make it???



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Message posted by smooth on October-12-2010 at 10:08am
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That is a Gigapixel panorama shot with a long focal length lens. Not a true panorama for tours that Tourweaver caters for.

Sure you can get more resolution using a longer focal length lens like say a 35mm instead of a fisheye lens. But you will need to shoot a lot of images and this makes the stitching job much more difficult and will take a long time to get a result. I seem to remember that the Paris 26 Gigapixel images took 3 full days to stitch with a powerful computer.

See this page

Quote: Website 


What about the technique?

Paris 26 Gigapixels was shot with very unique hardware: 2 Canon 5D Mark II (21.1 MP) each with a 300 mm f4.0 with a tele converter in order to get a  600mm /f8.0 needed to beat the record, mounted on a custom-made panoramic head.


Regards, Smooth [8D]


Message posted by madmux on October-12-2010 at 10:14am
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That's different story. The RAW format doesn't mean anything here. The technique is called "deep zoom" (search for the keayword to get more knowledge) and such a picture consists of a lot of pictures fotographed with different zoom levels.
For that kind of fotography you need to buy specialized hardware or do manually a lot of manual work (doubt that it's worth).
And, by the way - that is not a panorama (just 2d image with several zoom levels) and you need to use other tools to achieve this effect. In short - You won't achieve this with EP tools.

Best wishes,
Tomas

Message posted by kmsr on October-12-2010 at 10:37am
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Actually, I use JPG image in my work.But does the RAW extension will add more benefit to my photo resilotion or keep using JPG.

Thanks All,



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Message posted by smooth on October-12-2010 at 11:09am
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A RAW image, Canon .CRW, .CS2 or Nikon .NEF is an unprocessed/undeveloped image that need processing to .tif, .bmp or .jpg. Tourweaver as a program expects .jpg

All processing should be done in a non lossy format like .tif (16 bit) and the very last thing you should do is render out the final developed image as an 8 bit .jpg.

RAW by itself in no good until processed into something, it is just what the camera sensor captures. Think of RAW as undeveloped film or negitive and .tif as the master HD print, .jpg as a compressed copy of the final image.

Regards, Smooth [8D]


Message posted by phoenixrising on October-13-2010 at 5:53am
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Hi there kmsr,

we've all gone through the same route here kmsr. Think of RAW as your mastercopy that you'll always have to fall back on. (I keep these seperatly stored as a back up just in case all else is lost.)
RAW also has a number of other key benefits apart from that. I tend to take 3 shots at different exposures and repeat the process each 90. Best bet is to take your 1st 3 shots parralel to the main lightsource and use that as the base reference image and then take the other 2 shots 1 or 2 ev each side of your medium exposure. Repeat each 90 with same exposure values. If required you may need to take an additional set of images in a given 90 to be able to enhance/blend an especially light/dark image better. Take shots useing the auto timer to minimise camera shake. My Canon 30D allows me to set the 3 shots and then takes them with 10 sec. timer.
Here's where the benefits come in. RAW also records the luminesance of an image and thus allows you to make vast corrections when images or parts thereof are under/overexposed. This means you'll be able to save many many shots that otherwise just wouldn't work and I'd have to retake.
You'll also be able to adjust to a set value of colour temperature for all images or tweak it for all as desired which stops any problems you may face with different colours between images when stiched.
So input your 3 RAW's (I use PS3 which has RAW reading ability but found that Canons RAW software that came with the CAM pretty good and easy to use) adjust accordingly output as .tif and blend for HDR (I still do this manually in PS) save as .tif and inport to EP for stiching and also save pano as .tif. I tend to always make a pano as big as possible (ca. 6000x3000) to have a good base file which I can always resize down and publish to a .jpg when required for final tour use. ;-)

EP's tools are mainly designed for fisheye lens use and thus quick workflow. There are a number of other software progs out there that'll focus more upon very high res imagery. However you'll need to find the clients that'll pay you for the additional workflow... and believe me I've tried. Some photographers have used above mentioned techniques to produce very large scale imagery which be used for print which seems to be the main reason to want so much resolution. I recall when I first started down the pano route that many some would have fairly complex heavy and expensive setups taking say 36 exposures and lots of post processing time to develop one fantastic but costly panorama. I for one have yet to find clients willing to pay for that kinda work.

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If I only had an hour to chop down a tree... I'd spend 45 mins sharpening the axe.

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