Interested to read Dave suggesting to "level up" on each image. I thought I had read on more that one occasion that this was a "no no". Level up on the first image only. Did I dream this can someone tell me?

Glenn

Suggest you might try taking the image sets using both techniques.  Level on first image only.  AND levelling up on each image.  Try stitching both sets and look at the results.

We found that Leveling on first only.. can and often does cause a tilt up/down stair step affect in the 2nd, 3rd and 4th image relative to the horizon which causes unnecssary stitching issues.  It might be because of our specific pan head hardware.

Levelling the pan head at each click stop assures that each of the following images are in fact level with the horizon.

Just a thought on the matter.

Dave

It is not recommended to re-level on each step. In fact all panoheads I have owned the manufacturers recommend that you never re-level after setting up the first shot.

My personal testing of this method confirms it makes things go pear shaped. Thus, I strongly advise against it. But, if you have nothing better to do you might want to test it for yourself! Dave seems to think it works - but I suggest this is only as a result of his odd panorama head camera combination.

Regards, Smooth

I've got someone suggesting i save the money on the 20D and get this rebel xt.  It looks like you had some slight obsticals using the xt and the agnos rotator.  Did you ever get the ceiling to match up? I looked on your site and didn't see any samples... if you've got any using this setup i'd like to see it, thanks!

Quote: Originally posted by Thomas on October-21-2005

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You can save still more money and get a used 300D saving for a Canon 5D with 15mm fullframe fisheye once the prices will go down after Christmas ..

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Aren't we all?

Regards, Smooth

Quote: Originally posted by adavis2 on October-20-2005

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I've got someone suggesting i save the money on the 20D and get this rebel xt.  It looks like you had some slight obsticals using the xt and the agnos rotator.  Did you ever get the ceiling to match up? I looked on your site and didn't see any samples... if you've got any using this setup i'd like to see it, thanks!

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Just so you know.

The Nodal Point/Entrance Pupil is the property of the lens and has nothing to do with the camera. Using Canon 300D, 350D, D30, 10D, 20D, 5D etc makes no difference to the nodal point. All of these cameras set up on the MrotatorT will perform perfectly so long as you have the nodal point located and positioned correctly.

Regards, Smooth

Figured I would keep the nodal point on the Canon Rebel within this topic.  I am so close, however seeking a recomendation.  The following link takes you to a .jpg that was stitched at 7000x3000 and then converted to cubicle.  The image includes only top and bottom with the diriction of the pano shoot.  What I am interested in, do I need to move left or right to correct the nodal?  I will base this on standing behind the camera looking at shot 1 = 0. Left or Right?  Any ideas?  Figured I would ask here before just moving the Rebel around on the Agnos TCPS.

Thanks,
Pixel

http://360virtuals.com/images/nodal_correction_cubic_crop.jpg

Photo is way too small to get anything out of it really.

It looks as though you need to move the camera to the left slightly.

Regards, Smooth

Increased image size to 1200x600

http://360virtuals.com/images/nodal_correction_cubic_crop.jpg

Thanks,
Pixel