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Subject Topic: Nodal Ninja R1 HELP!! Post Reply Post New Topic
Message posted by smooth on November-11-2009 at 2:25am
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This is the nadir footprint from a correctly aligned Sigma 8mm on a Canon 10D APS-C DSLR. This is set at 24mm at +5 degrees tilt.

Regards, Smooth

Message posted by smooth on November-11-2009 at 2:30am
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Quote: Originally posted by wozzaj on November-11-2009
One question, what would you say is the minimal number of control points that is required. I have all but given up on the ones assigned automatically a I have noticed they can often be way off! I am assigning anywhere between 8-10 as a rule, spread out as much as possible. Does this sound feasible?


With Panoweaver it does need a good amount of well spread out control points. 10 sounds about right per overlapping pair.

Regards, Smooth

Message posted by wozzaj on November-12-2009 at 7:12am
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These are the results I get: http://users.tpg.com.au/wjtpg/images.jpg
I have tried 23.5mm, 24mm and 24.5mm all at +5 tilt. Still not perfect, yet 24mm gives the best result, but as you can see, nothing like your image above for some reason... Why is it so elusive?!?!?!?

 



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Regards,
Wozza
EOS 450D, Sigma 8mm F3.5 EX DG, Manfrotto 190XPROB

Message posted by smooth on November-12-2009 at 8:04am
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Wozza,

All I can tell you is that PW6 appears to be better at images that are tilted over PW5 where you are restrained to a fix "menu" of images. (Where it expects level 4x Drum etc)

Just as a test, download the trial of PW6 and give that a go and show me the results.

Regards, Smooth

Message posted by wozzaj on November-16-2009 at 10:18pm
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Downloaded it and tried a few stitches, but at the moment, I am finding that it does not stitch as well as PW5!!! I'll do some more and upload the 'best' of them. I think I prefer the layout and features of PW5, for instance, being able to select what type of image and whether or not to use T+B etc. I know it says it does this automatically, but I like to have the option of manually setting these things. I do like the pano previwer - MUCH improved speed wise, however, many, many times it crashes when I go to preview a pano after pre-stitching and after not saving it - what a pain in the butt!! Can't really see much difference between Smartblend and PWBlend other than PWblend is MUCH quicker!

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Regards,
Wozza
EOS 450D, Sigma 8mm F3.5 EX DG, Manfrotto 190XPROB

Message posted by wozzaj on November-19-2009 at 6:47am
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Hey Smooth.

I went back to PW5 as I was of the belief that I must be able to do it. I have uploaded the result for you to look at here: http://users.tpg.com.au/wjtpg/test.rar . This is as good as I can get it after nearly 1500 shots since beginning with the R1! There is some slight mis-alignment on the coving, but it is as close as I can get to the tiles on the floor lining up and the 'perfect circle'. The problem is, I am not convinced it is right. These images were taken 4+T at -7.5 tilt and the R1 rail setting has gone off the scale - way past 3.50mm up to the point it will no longer move!

I have taken the lens off again and made sure it is 100% correctly fitted to the ring and positioned correctly on the camera body which it is and am so at a complete loss to the point I am even wondering if the instructions on how to position the R1 ring on the lens is correct!

Would appreciate your thoughts mate.

Regards,
Wozza
EOS 450D, Sigma 8mm F3.5 EX DG, Manfrotto 190XPROB


Message posted by smooth on November-19-2009 at 7:37am
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Quote: Originally posted by smooth on November-10-2009
Woz,

I had a bit of time to play with the Sigma 8mm on a APS-C DSLR camera.

The correct setting is 24mm @ +5 degrees (use this setting)
I also found the setting for -2.5 degrees is 31mm (not that you will ever use it).

I have stitched this successfully (multiple times) with PW5, PW6 and PTGui.

Regards, Smooth


As I stated above.

24.0mm is correct for +5 degrees and that is all you need to care about as far as the NPP is concerned.

If -2.5 degrees is 31mm (and it is) then at -7.5 degrees you are off the scale.

Take my work for it. You want 24.0mm at +5 degrees.
The rest is up to your control points, stitching skills and software package.

Regards, Smooth

Message posted by wozzaj on November-19-2009 at 11:26pm
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Thanks for bearing with me on this Smooth.

Your recommendation of 24mm and a +5 tilt does work very well, unlike the recommended 1.95 at +5 tilt in the R1 manual! However, it was that perfect circle I have been striving for and just not being able to get it that made me keep trying other settings. I guess you must be right in that it must be my stitching skills. Would love to know what you think about how I do it. I have uploaded some images here: http://users.tpg.com.au/wjtpg/+5-2.40.rar that show the settings and the control points that I have manually added and how it turned out. Maybe after all my efforts it is the control points and stitching where I am going wrong. This is all done in the latest version of PW5.



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Regards,
Wozza
EOS 450D, Sigma 8mm F3.5 EX DG, Manfrotto 190XPROB

Message posted by smooth on November-24-2009 at 1:17am
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Wozza,

More control points are required closer to the tripod.

Regards, Smooth

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